Your Sensitive Skin Will Love These Gentle Retinoids

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If there’s one thing most dermatologists and estheticians can agree on, it’s that retinoids are the gold standard for treating a slew of skincare issues. That’s because they can increase cell turnover and bolster collagen levels in the skin.

“Vitamin A derivatives, called retinoids, are [among] the most widely studied and evidence-based topical treatments for slowing down the aging process of the skin,” says Dr. Kristina Collins, MD, FAAD, a Texas-based double board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Austin Skin. “All retinoids, of which retinol is one type, [can] improve wrinkles, pore size, pigmentation, and skin texture.”

The only problem with this multipurpose wonder topical is that results can only be expected with consistent long-term use. And sometimes,s perfectly healthy skin doesn’t tolerate retinoids well—let alone skin with sensitivities or preexisting conditions, like eczema or rosacea, explains Alicia Yoon, esthetician and founder of Peach & Lily skincare. Because retinoids increase the rate of skin cell division and turnover, Dr. Collins adds that they can lead to peeling.

The Solution: Gentler Retinoids

While derms prescribe pure, active retinoic acid (tretinoin aka Retin-A is an example) to patients who can tolerate it because of its efficacy, the best retinoid—or retinoid-like product—is the one you’ll use consistently. Results take time (as early as one month in some cases but up to six to 12 months of regular use for truly visible differences, according to Dr. Collins), and nothing puts a damper on consistent retinoid use quite like skin that reacts negatively to it. This is where gentler retinoids and alternatives could come into play.

Keep reading for all the deets, but if you’re looking for the TL;DR, scroll down to our list of expert-backed and reviewer-recommended products.

Retinoids (And An Alt) To Look Out For

OTC retinoids are gentler than pure retinoic acid include retinal (aka retinaldehyde), retinol, and retinyl esters (like retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate). Another buzzword is “encapsulated” or “time-release” retinoids, which can potentially curb irritation, per Dr. Collins and Yoon, by delaying activation time after application.

And there’s one more ingredient to consider: Sometimes referred to as “nature’s retinol,” according to Dr. Collins, bakuchiol is a botanical extract (not a vitamin A derivative or true retinoid) that can bind some of the retinoic acid receptors in the skin. That means it may produce some of the same effects as retinoids in skin care products.

Other Factors To Consider

Beyond the type of retinoid (or retinoid-like ingredient) used in a given product, the concentration of that retinoid also plays a role in its strength and efficacy. In general, within a given type of retinoid, the lower the concentration, the gentler the skincare product. However, some retinoids are more potent than others to begin with.

According to Yoon, the most common range for retinols is between 0.1% to 1% concentration, while retinals fall between 0.01% to 0.1% range; that’s because retinals are closer in chemical makeup to pure retinoic acid than retinols are, so the concentration of retinal doesn’t need to be as high as retinol to be just as effective. Similarly, as Dr. Collins points out, a 1% retinol could be weaker than a 0.025% retinoic acid. That being said, it’s not just about the numbers—and some brands don’t even list the concentration percentages on their packaging. Yoon and Dr. Collins advise also paying attention to the retinoid’s accompanying ingredients, which could also impact its efficacy and potency. (You'll see more on some of these ingredients in our product roundup below!)

Remember: True retinoids—even “gentle” ones—aren’t safe for use while pregnant or nursing, and retinoids will always make skin more susceptible to sunlight, so be sure to shore up your SPF protection during the day. And if ever in question, consult with your dermatologist.

Pro Tips For Using Any Retinoid

Go slow.

No matter the form of retinoid, for best results (and the least amount of potential irritation), Dr. Collins recommends starting slow—using it anywhere from once a week to every third night a week—and working up to nightly application within a few weeks. Yoon also suggests patch testing before committing to regular use.

Pick one.

Don’t pair, say, a retinal serum with a night cream that has retinol in it. Still, you can sandwich a retinoid serum in between retinoid-free moisturizers, Yoon says, to buffer your skin’s exposure to the retinoid.

Take care in sensitive areas.

“I would be careful to avoid application of the product in the skin crevices, such as around the nares (nostrils), where it may cause more irritation,” says Dr. Collins. Of course, you should always tread lightly around the ever-delicate eye and neck area.

13 Gentle Retinoids And Alternatives To Try

Press Restart Gentle Retinol Serum

The encapsulated retinol—at a 0.03% concentration—and bakuchiol (at 1.05% concentration) in this lightweight, budget-friendly formula are purportedly offset by anti-inflammatory antioxidants.

Retinal for All

“Our mission was to create one of the most powerful non-prescription formulas that even the most sensitive skin could use without worry,” says Yoon of Peach and Lily’s Retinal for All, which features encapsulated 0.1% retinaldehyde (aka retinal) coupled with ectoin, a substance that’s said to prevent irritation triggered by retinoids.

Universal Pro-Retinol

To stave off the potential dryness and peeling associated with retinol and retinoic acid, the team at Glossier used a hybrid of retinol and sunflower seed fatty acids called retinyl sunflowerate in their creamy night serum. They say you can expect a little extra smoothing and resurfacing power due to the presence of stevia leaf extract in the formula, and a dewy, healthy glow when you wake up in the morning, thanks to the moisture-binding humectants glycerin and mondo grass root extract.

Night Treatment Oil

Dr. Collins’s waterless skin care line includes this night treatment oil with retinyl retinoate (a retinyl ester) and hexyl resorcinol, which she says is a free radical neutralizer that reduces DNA damage, rosehip oil, sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil, and all eight forms of vitamin E to drive hydration into the skin.

Squalane + Retinol Night Serum

Biossance’s newest retinol serum packs a one-two punch with a duo of encapsulated time-release retinol and retinal. Pair that combo with antioxidants from rosemary and saffron, which is said to stabilize those retinoids, and sugarcane-derived squalane, the brand’s signature hydrator that’s in all its formulations, and you have a recipe for an effective skin corrector and wrinkle reducer. “There’s a reason it’s always sold out on this [the Biossance] website,” says one reviewer.

FAB Skin Lab Retinol Serum 0.25% Pure Concentrate

Touted as a beginner retinol, First Aid Beauty’s Skin Lab Retinol Serum can help to firm, even out tone, and reduce pore size. It’s also packed with colloidal oatmeal and aloe vera to offset its strength.

Retinol Complex 0.25

Similar to First Aid Beauty’s serum, this retinol complex from SkinMedica has a retinol concentration of 0.25%. The difference-maker here when it comes to gentler formulation is that the retinol is encapsulated with an antioxidant technology that’s said to counter dryness and peeling.

Honestly Pure Retinyl Serum

Retinyl linoleate, a retinyl ester, mingles with hyaluronic acids in this night treatment that would be a nice option for anyone with especially reactive skin. “I was looking for a starter retinol as I have never used one before,” said one reviewer. “This one is gentle and works really well. It has fought my acne, scars, and hyperpigmentation!”

Age Renew Retinol Overnight Body & Face Lotion

Retinoids aren’t just for the face; you can give the rest of your skin a little boost with an overnight lotion like this one. The non-greasy formula pairs retinol with peptides to purportedly lightly exfoliate, hydrate, and plump.

SPF 30 Renewal Firming Day Lotion

Powered by bakuchiol, Burt’s Bees Renewal Firming Day Lotion is said to tighten and smooth but claims not to make your skin photosensitive like retinoids. Think of it as a souped-up primer that’ll help protect your face from the sun and maybe even reduce the look of your crow’s feet and wrinkles over time.

Bakuchiol Serum

Farm Rx’s lightweight, oil-based serum also uses bakuchiol, which goes to work on minimizing fine lines and brightens dull skin. Again, it’s not a synthetic retinoid but a gentle retinoid replacement, so you can use this one any time of day, too, without worrying about sun sensitivity.

Regenerist Retinol24 Night Moisturizer

Olay's fragrance-free night cream contains the brand’s proprietary blend of retinol and retinyl propionate (a retinyl ester). Moisturizing niacinamide is in the formula, along with amino peptides to provide a silky smooth finish. There’s also an eye cream, cleanser, night serum, and moisturizer available in the Retinol24 range.

Retinal Night

Formulated with a 0.1% concentration of retinaldehyde (aka retinal), this night treatment also contains a lipid blend to help shore up the skin barrier and peptides for an extra elasticity boost. “It’s not irritating to my skin," writes one reviewer. "My little milia around my nose area are actually fading away!”

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