The Secret Weapon for Younger-Looking Skin: Is It Hyaluronic Acid?

Learn why dermatologists recommend this hydrating ingredient for a youthful glow.

<p>Getty</p>

Getty

Hyaluronic acid is a bona fide skincare hero. It’s one of the few ingredients that dermatologists recommend for pretty much anyone, regardless of age, skin type, specific skin concerns, or pregnancy status. Its popularity comes down to its powerful hydrating properties, as well as its potential for helping with acne, improving skin texture, and aiding the skin’s healing process. As for who benefits the most from incorporating hyaluronic acid into their routine, it’s particularly potent for dry, dehydrated skin and for combating the signs of skin aging.

You could take our word that hyaluronic acid is the skincare ingredient you need to add to your routine ASAP, or you could take it from the three board-certified dermatologists we spoke to. Ahead, you’ll find the experts’ best advice for understanding how hyaluronic acid works, how to incorporate it into your skincare routine, and which products are best.

What Is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring molecule in the skin that works to fight dehydration, but as we age, we produce less of it—which is why it’s a great idea to supplement it with a topical product. According to board-certified cosmetic dermatologist Howard Sobel, M.D., hyaluronic acid keeps the skin hydrated “by holding up to a thousand times its weight in water,” which is pretty impressive if you ask us. “The water molecules bind with collagen in the skin to trap the water to keep skin smooth and moisturized,” adds Dr. Sobel.

Meanwhile, Serena Mraz, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist at Solano Dermatology and Associates, explains how hyaluronic acid interacts with collagen to promote nourished, smooth, bouncy skin. “While collagen provides a structural buttress to the skin, elastin and hyaluronic acid give the skin springback abilities. Hyaluronic acid also gives the skin its juiciness and glow,” says Dr. Mraz.

Hyaluronic Acid Benefits

Hyaluronic acid has several incredible benefits in skin care. It’s a fantastic humectant, yes, but that’s not all it has going for it.

Relieves and Nourishes Dry Skin

The number one reason to add hyaluronic acid to your skincare routine is to help combat skin dryness. “Hyaluronic acid is particularly beneficial for dry skin due to its intense hydrating properties,” says Kautilya Shaurya, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City. “It helps to replenish moisture, alleviating dryness and associated tightness or flakiness.”

While there are other effective humectants often found in skin care, such as glycerin or peptides, hyaluronic acid is widely regarded as the holy grail in that area. “Hyaluronic acid is a potent humectant and will keep moisture locked into the skin better than pretty much any other natural molecule,” says Dr. Mraz. “It helps the skin to hold on to more than one thousand times its weight in water.”

Helps Combat Acne

Hyaluronic acid isn’t an acne-fighting ingredient per se, as noted by Dr. Shaurya, but it does work to support an acne-specific skincare routine effectively. “Contrary to the common perception that acne-prone skin should be treated with only agents that dry out the skin to combat oiliness, hyaluronic acid is a mainstay in treatment for acne,” says Dr. Mraz. “Not only can it counteract irritation from commonly prescribed irritating agents such as tretinoin or other retinoids, but it also has direct benefits of reducing inflammation, helping to repair the skin, and possibly even reducing oil production signals with hydration.” That also means it can help prevent breakouts.

Improves Skin Texture

Hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient in anti-aging skin care routines because we stop producing so much of it naturally in our mid-twenties. It works to even skin texture, which also means fighting the visible signs of skin aging. “By filling the skin with moisture, hyaluronic acid can help reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Dr. Shaurya. Also, “it can improve skin texture and quality by providing a plump, smooth appearance,” the expert adds.

Supports Skin Healing

Whether you’re struggling with acne scars or skin irritation, hyaluronic acid can help, thanks partly to its anti-inflammatory properties. “It supports the skin’s healing and repairing ability, potentially reducing healing time for wounds and decreasing redness,” says Dr. Shaurya. Interestingly, research shows that hyaluronic acid may play an active role in wound healing and tissue regeneration.

How to Choose the Best Hyaluronic Acid Skincare Product

When purchasing a hyaluronic acid product, there are a couple of factors to consider.

Concentration

The experts warn that you can have too much of a good thing when it comes to hyaluronic acid. “Hyaluronic acid is so powerful in holding water in the skin that concentrations under 2% are optimal, and higher concentrations can result in a counterproductive inflammatory response,” explains Dr. Mraz.

Try to check the ingredient list where possible: The expert recommends opting for a product that contains “pure and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid as well as ingredients to help with the penetration of hyaluronic acid into the skin and ingredients to upregulate the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid.” She says to look for organic silicium and taurine to complement the hyaluronic acid.

Type of Product

  • Cleansers: Cleansers that contain hyaluronic acid won’t help you reap maximum benefits because they’re designed to be washed off. However, they can still be a good choice for sensitive skin since hyaluronic acid “can help to counteract some of the harsher effects of cleansers,” which can sometimes strip the skin barrier, says Dr. Mraz.

  • Serums: Hyaluronic acid serums are typically the most popular choice and one the experts endorse. “A serum is a great option in many cases due to its potency and the ease with which it can be incorporated into any skincare routine,” says Dr. Shaurya. Other options include moisturizers or SPF creams with hyaluronic acid, which allow the ingredient to have a long-lasting effect on your skin.

  • Injectables: As noted by Dr. Mraz, hyaluronic acid is also often used as an ingredient in injectable fillers. In this case, it should be administered by a certified health care professional in a dermatologist’s office or medispa.

How to Use Hyaluronic Acid

Dr. Sobel puts it simply: “Everyone should try to incorporate a hyaluronic acid serum or cream into their skincare regime and use it at least once a day.”

  • Apply after cleansing, before moisturizer: Hyaluronic acid serums should be applied to damp skin after cleansing and followed with a moisturizer to help seal in the product.

  • If you are using a hyaluronic acid cream but not a serum: If you are using a hyaluronic acid cream but not a serum, you can layer the cream on a different kind of serum instead, such as one containing vitamin C (in the morning) or retinol (in the evening).

  • If using a hyaluronic serum (and other serums): Use the hyaluronic acid product as the last step before your moisturizer. This will allow it to lock in the active ingredients in your first serum.

  • Frequency of use: You should use your hyaluronic acid product at least once daily, but twice a day is even better.

For use in your daily skincare routine, Dr. Mraz recommends using one or two products that contain hyaluronic acid together, such as, for instance, a serum followed by a sunscreen. Dr. Shaurya agrees but cautions that using more than two products containing hyaluronic acid will probably not enhance the ingredient’s benefits, so you’re better off combining them with products that contain ingredients with complementary properties, such as retinoids or antioxidants, for instance.

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