Secret Lisbon – the best things to do while avoiding the crowds
As one of only a handful of green-list countries announced so far, Portugal is about to do a lot of heavy lifting to satisfy a year of pent-up holiday demand. Lisbon, the city of seven hills, dazzling light and custard tarts that’s just minutes from some of Europe’s best beaches is sure to be in hot demand.
We have selected a few favourites that are either lesser-known, off the beaten path or just not quite yet on the tourism radar to give you a unique experience of Portugal’s capital.
The international borders are open to Portugal and to enter a PCR test is required within 72 hours of departure.
Eat
O Frade
Chef Carlos Afonso worked his way through Michelin-starred kitchens before returning to his roots, opening this modern tavern with his cousin Sérgio Frade. Cuisine from Portugal’s Alentejo region is hearty farmer’s fare but the cousins have elevated classics like duck rice to something worthy of their newly earned Michelin Bib Gourmand. The best seats are at the U-shaped counter surrounding the busy kitchen.
Contact: 00 351 938 788 705; Facebook page
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
O Velho
Eurico Lisbon is full of tascas, defined by harsh lighting, wise-cracking waiters, paper tablecloths and a television in the corner. They’re sadly a slowly dying breed but sometimes, as with O Velho Eurico, they’re not retired but rejuvenated. A new guard of young Portuguese chefs has taken over, plating traditional Portuguese dishes with fresh finesse. Stop by to refuel after (or before) exploring São Jorge Castle.
Contact: 00 351 21 886 1815; ovelhoeurico.eatbu.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Recommended
Ultimo Porto
With forklifts and shipping containers whizzing past behind a wire fence, it’s clear this is not your average great-view, mediocre-food waterfront restaurant. It’s part of the charm at Último Porto, where businessmen gather to eat clams and drink white wine by the litre. It’s tricky to find, but if you’re feeling adventurous this is the best spot in Lisbon for fresh grilled fish.
Contact: 00 351 21 397 9498; Facebook page
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
Drink
Lumi Rooftop
Few rooftop bars in Lisbon can rival the service and sophistication of Lumi. Located on the fifth floor of The Lumiares, a five-star luxury hotel in Bairro Alto, this space takes in spectacular views of the city skyline. Choose from a good selection of Portuguese wine or try one of the cocktails, such as the Lumi Negroni, made with local vermouth and Madeira wine.
Contact: 00 351 21 116 0210; thelumiares.com
Close to: Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
Prices: ££
Reservations: Walk-in
A Tabacaria
Signs allude to a past life as a lottery house and tobacconist, but since 2015 the antique wooden shelves have held a selection of fine liquor instead. Head bartender João Sancheira, who was named Bartender of the Year by World Class Portugal earlier this month, shakes up some of the most creative cocktails in Lisbon. Try the ‘Beet my Lich Up’ that mixes gin, beetroot and lychee.
Contact: Instagram page
Prices: £
Reservations: Not accepted
Praia da Princesa
Portugal’s world-class beaches and beaming sunshine don’t end at the Algarve. A half-hour taxi or ride-share trip (£9-13) south of Lisbon will take you to the raw and pristine coastline of Costa da Caparica. Reserve a table at Praia da Princesa to feast on a lunch of grilled prawns, clams drenched in olive oil and garlic and fresh local fish. Lock in a beachside sun lounger for a follow-up nap.
Contact: praiaprincesa.com
Prices: ££
Reservations: Highly recommended
Explore
Miradouro Panorâmico de Monsanto
Few visitors enter Lisbon’s “green lung”, a 900-hectare forest park on the west side of the city. If they knew about the hidden 270-degree panoramic viewpoint maybe that would change. Splattered with eye-catching graffiti and soaked in an air of fallen glory, this former luxury restaurant hides possibly the best view of Lisbon.
Location: Estrada da Bela Vista, Lisboa
Hours: 9am-6pm
Producer Market in Praça de São Paulo
A passion for Portuguese produce inspired Rita Santos, from wine bar and grocer Comida Independente, to bring people together in these strange times. Every Saturday a roster of farmers and small producers converge alongside street food pop-ups run by a rotating cast of some of Lisbon’s most exciting chefs, such as João Rodrigues from Michelin-starred Feitoria.
Location: Praça de São Paulo
Hours: Saturday 10am-2pm
Jardim do Torel
In this city of hills there are dozens of places to catch a glimpse of Lisbon’s terracotta rooftops from above. Miradouro da Graça, Senhora do Monte and Portas do Sol are all well known, but the small Jardim do Torel is a local favourite. Slip through a gate on an unsuspecting suburban street to find this grassy cliffside park, hidden in plain sight.
Location: Rua Júlio de Andrade
Hours: 6am-10pm
Neighbourhoods
São Bento
This lively neighbourhood pocket is on the famous tram 28 line, but most tourists simply shuttle by the restaurants, antique stores and boutiques on their journey to Alfama. D’Olival boasts artisanal olive oils from around the country and hand-crafted Portuguese ceramics. Hello Kristof is for specialty coffee and lesser-known magazines. And when hunger strikes, seek out steak at Osso Bento or try chef Nuno Mendes’ favourite, Cantinho da Paz.
Marvila
Abandoned warehouses are now coworking spaces, spacious galleries and breweries in Marvila. You can easily fill an afternoon bouncing between the tap rooms of Dois Corvos, Lince, Musa and Bolina, all stars of Lisbon’s emerging craft beer scene. Between pints explore high-quality retro furniture at Cantinho do Vintage or hunt for street art at Underdogs Gallery.
Read Telegraph Travel's full guide to Lisbon here, plus our guide to the best hotels in Lisbon.
