The Science of Kelly Slater's Surf Ranch (Video)

Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch is a feat of engineering.

A perfect wave. A gigantic foil plowing through 2,200 feet of water. An estimated $30 million to build the thing. And all of it going down 100 miles from the coast.

But what about the science behind it?

Although the Kelly Slater Wave Co. tech is kept under wraps, some factoids about how, exactly, the wave works and the bottom contours effect the shape have slipped.

And now, folks from the Scripps Institution of Oceanography have used the Surf Ranch as a test facility for further understanding the science behind waves.

Captioning the post above, which showcases the study, Scripps wrote:

“An exciting breakthrough in wave research took place at Kelly Slater Wave Co (@kswaveco) Surf Ranch, with Scripps Oceanography researchers at the helm. Physical oceanographer Falk Feddersen led a study with scientists from @kswaveco and Naval Postgraduate School (@nps_monterey) using a new instrument to make in situ measurements inside waves, providing us with incredible new knowledge about wave dynamics and their impact.

“‘This is the first time this kind of measurement has been done, and one of the things that Scripps Oceanography is really good at is figuring out how to measure things for the first time, especially when it comes to instrumentation deployed in water,’ Feddersen said.

“The study published in Coastal Engineering Journal introduces the wavedrifter, a small floating instrument that is able to unveil the secrets hidden within waves and their behavior when they break, shedding light on the intense accelerations that occur when waves overturn.

“Using the perfect conditions provided by the machine wave at Surf Ranch, the researchers also delved into the complex vortex structures created when waves break. These swirling patterns hold crucial insights into wave dynamics, impacting everything from shoreline changes to coastal ecosystems.

“‘It’s amazing to see a facility built for the stoke of surfing being used to advance the science of coastal engineering and wave physics,’ said Adam Fincham, chief scientist and founder of @kswaveco.

“The implementation of the wavedrifter in coastal environments can also help contribute to better coastal planning, improved beach management, and a deeper appreciation for the forces shaping our shores.

“‘This research and developing instruments that help us better understand coastal processes is crucial to protecting and preserving our beaches,’ Feddersen said. ‘Before, turbulence by waves breaking would be measured by proxy, whereas now we can measure it directly.’”

Science, man. Pretty neat stuff.

If you really wanna nerd out and read more about the study, go check it out here.

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