The Science of Beauty: A Complete Guide for Smaller-Looking Pores
Join the editors of Allure as we ask the tough questions at the intersection of science and beauty, and get straight answers from dermatologists, cosmetic chemists, and at least one expert on climate change (we said the questions were tough). It's all going down on The Science of Beauty, a new podcast hosted by editor in chief Michelle Lee and executive beauty director Jenny Bailly. (Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts.) This episode made possible by Olay.
But because we can only get so nerdy over the airwaves, here we take the conversation one step further by breaking down our findings and adding more crucial facts — so you too can become an expert. Today, we’re setting the record straight about pores.
If you’ve ever picked up a magnifying mirror, chances are you’ve spent time examining what look like craters scattered across your skin. No, you can’t make them disappear — nor would you want to. Those craters are actually tiny openings known as pores — and if you didn’t have them, you’d be dead.
But our collective fixation with pores goes much further than simply their size. Just take a look at the videos posted by dermatologist Sandra Lee (also known as Dr. Pimple Popper), which have become so popular, they spawned a reality TV show.
Lee often records herself tackling all kinds of pore woes, from extracting blackheads the size of a pebble to popping ever-growing pustules — and people go crazy for it. “For some reason, for many people, [my videos] actually relax them,” she says during the third episode of The Science of Beauty. “A lot of people watch them as bedtime stories.“
Even if you don’t have a blackhead that could land you a starring role on Lee’s TLC show, most of us know what it’s like when our pores turn on us, resulting in a pimple.
So, in this episode of The Science of Beauty, co-hosts Michelle Lee and Jenny Bailly take a deep dive into the world of pores. Spoiler alert: Nothing will change the fact that you can see your pores, but there are more ways than one to keep them looking (and acting!) happy and healthy.
What are pores?
In order to understand how to treat pores and the skin issues that come with them, it’s important to know what they are and how they work. But first, let’s get one thing straight: pores are not the enemy. In fact, pores play a vital part in our body’s natural processes.
To put it simply, pores are a pouching of skin. Some of these tiny openings contain oil glands which secrete oil to keep the skin from drying out. Others secrete sweat, which helps to regulate the body’s temperature. It’s for that reason that if you didn’t have pores, “you would be dead,” says dermatologist Shereene Idriss during our episode. “You would overheat, go nuts, and basically pass out.”
What determines pore size?
As with many other skin characteristics, genetics play a role in pore size. However, the greatest determining factor of how your pores will look in your 50s is how much sun you’ve gotten in your youth. That’s because years of sun exposure can permanently dilate the pores. The more sun exposure you get, the more the collagen and elastin supporting each pore begin to degrade, making the pore stretch and sag around the edges.
Skin type can also play a role in how large your pores are. Pores appear the biggest where the oil glands are most active, which is typically in the t-zone. Therefore, those with oily skin will often have the largest pores. People with combination skin (an oily t-zone and drier cheeks) will likely have larger pores — concentrated along the t-zone — too. And while less common, it’s also possible to have dry skin and large pores, mostly due to the accumulation of dead skin cells building up and clogging the openings.
Gender is yet another factor. Men reportedly have higher sebum production and larger pore size due to an increased amount of testosterone and dihydrotestosterone (DHT) in the male body. A 2012 study published in the Archives of Dermatological Research found that testosterone and DHT (which is produced by testosterone) can stimulate the sebaceous glands and cause excess oil production — and therefore, create enlarged pores. Women, on the other hand, have their own hormonal factors — often due to their menstrual cycle — that can affect pore size, since hormone changes increase oil production in the skin.
Pore size differs across ethnic groups, too. In fact, a study conducted by researchers at L’Oréal found that pore sizes vary much more with ethnicity than with age. The study found that the most extreme average differences in pore size were between Chinese and Brazilian women. Chinese women had smaller pores, while Brazilian and Indian women had larger pores. Another study, conducted by Kao, found that Asian people have the smallest pore areas compared with other racial groups. African Americans, on the other hand, showed substantially more noticeable pores than any other racial group.
What happens when a pore is clogged?
Considering the average adult has five million pores on their body — with 20,000 on their face alone — it’s inevitable that a few of those openings will cause some issues. (Honestly, with so many on our body, it’s a little surprising that more aren’t acting up.) When a pore becomes blocked, it’s simply dead skin cells, sebum, and debris blocking the outlet and creating inflammation on the skin. But inflammation in a clogged pore doesn’t look the same across the board. Here are the differences:
Blackheads vs. Whiteheads
Blackheads — which appear as tiny black dots on the skin — are super common and caused by oil and debris that has oxidized and darkened within the pores. Whiteheads, on the other hand, are formed when dead skin cells collect on the surface of the skin and block pores, so oil and sebum balloon up. The oil trapped beneath combines with bacteria and causes the red, swollen bump that we all recognize as a pimple.
Cystic Acne
Cystic acne, which appears as huge, red, painful pimples, are generally caused by genetics and hormonal changes. They often recur in the same place because even if you manage to get rid of one, the pore can keep filling up with oil again and again.
Inflammatory Acne
Finally, inflammatory acne appears in the form of either pustules or papules. Pustules resemble whiteheads, and are filled with pus as a result of inflammation caused by bacteria. Papules are patches of small, red zits that don't come to a head.
Should you do extractions at home?
Short answer: no. “I will never go ahead and give you my blessing to go do it,” says Idriss. Popping a pimple at home can leave you with an infection, swelling, or a scar.
Don’t worry, leaving a pimple alone will still result in its departure. According to Idriss, the gunk within the breakout itself can be reabsorbed into the body. “Sometimes your body absorbs it all before it pushes it all the way out,” she explains.
While we can’t stress enough that it's not in your best interest to pop a pimple yourself, Idriss understands that realistically, you’re going to give it a try at one point or another. In order to do it in the safest way possible, Idriss says to start with a hot shower. Once that pimple feels like it’s right at the tip of your skin and about to pop, take a needle, clean it really well with alcohol, and then poke the center with the needle to create a small tunnel that will allow all of that gunk to work its way out. This way, you don’t have to squeeze the skin and cause extra trauma. “Once it's out, clean your face with an alcohol wipe to make sure that you're getting rid of any bacteria that's there,” adds Idriss.
When it comes to extracting blackheads, though, the process is a bit different. To safely extract a blackhead, hold a cotton swab on either side of the blackhead (while skin is damp from a shower or after being freshly washed), then gently press down. If it doesn’t budge, leave it alone and instead, simply apply a salicylic acid-based spot treatment.
Can pores shrink?
As much as we wish this was a possibility, it’s just not reality. Pores have no muscular attachment, so they cannot open and close. When people say that cold water will close your pores, that’s simply not true. Cold water can help keep your pores from producing excess oil for a few hours, but they never close them. Alternately, steam won’t cause them to open.
But, it’s not all bad news. It is possible to make pores look smaller and less noticeable. By reducing excess oil, exfoliating dead cells from the surface of the skin, and stimulating healthy collagen production to help support the structure of the pore, you can keep them looking tight.
The Best Products & Ingredients For Minimizing Pores
Pore-minimizing products will help your pores look clearer — and therefore appear smaller — if you use them on a regular basis. Unfortunately, any effects are temporary, so once you stop, your pores will go back to their original appearance.
Since debris can build up in pores and cause breakouts, pores must be kept clean. The best ingredients to accomplish this are the same fixes that work for acne — exfoliating ingredients like salicylic acid and alpha-hydroxy acids. Idriss uses both the L’Oréal Revitalift Derm Intensives 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum (she’s previously worked with the brand to help validate studies) and Biologique Recherche Lotion P50, a toner-like product that contains lactic, citric, and salicylic acids.
“Also, incorporate some kind of retinoids in your skin-care routine,” says Idriss. “A vitamin A derivative, whether it's a retinol or a retinol ester, will make sure that your skin is regenerating appropriately, [and] that you're helping produce more collagen so that your skin is getting a little bit stronger and tighter.”
While a solid skin-care routine gradually improves the appearance of pores, primer can act as a quick fix in the interim. Many primer products fill lines and pores with silicone, so your skin appears smoother (especially when the primer is worn under foundation). If your skin is acne-prone skin or you have an oily t-zone that tends to be shiny, look for an oil-free, mattifying primer that includes a zit-fighting ingredient like salicylic acid.
The Best In-Office Pore Treatments
When pores are tighter, light reflects better off your skin and you get an overall appearance of vital, youthful, and healthy skin. One way to help keep pores tight and clear is through professional treatments.
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) & LED Light
Both IPL and LED Light treatments use light that reaches deep into the skin to stimulate collagen production. They’re able to penetrate the deepest levels of the skin without harming the surface layer, and they’re painless. IPL takes 15 to 30 minutes and needs about three to five sessions to make pores look tighter and smaller. LED, on the other hand, takes about one minute and generally requires at least eight rounds.
Chemical Peels
An in-office, 20 to 30 percent salicylic-acid peel is one of the best ways to exfoliate the skin. Chemical peels are often the go-to treatment for problematic pores because they clear away dead skin cells and other pore-clogging debris, allowing for less visible openings. Experts suggest combining chemical peels with an LED treatment for the best results, since the peel exfoliates the skin and the LED light stimulates collagen.
Microneedling
If you’re looking for a treatment that’ll tackle more than one skin concern, consider microneedling. It’s a nonsurgical treatment that penetrates your skin’s surface with tiny needles to stimulate a wound-healing response that boosts the production of collagen. Collagen helps support the edges of pores, making them appear tighter. It also helps treat hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and acne scars.
Our Hosts Favorite Pore Minimizing Products
Michelle’s Current Favorites
“I love exfoliating,” says Michelle, adding that her favorite go-to exfoliators are Peach & Lily Super Reboot Resurfacing Mask and Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel.
Peach and Lily Super Reboot Resurfacing Mask
$43.00,
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel
$88.00,
Jenny’s Current Favorites
Like Idriss, Jenny likes to use Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 to keep her pores clear. Although she says it smells like rotten eggs, she claims it exfoliates the skin and “feels like it’s tightening up pores.” Another one of her pore-care picks? A clay mask, like True Botanicals Pacific Glacial Clay Detoxifying Mask, to help absorb the excess oil in her T-zone.
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50
$103.00,
True Botanicals Pacific Glacial Clay Detoxifying Mask
$75.00,
The Bottom Line
Pores are a critical part of the skin, and getting rid of them completely is impossible — so stop trying. Toss the magnifying mirror (why subject yourself to the sight of giant-looking pores if you’re the only one who can see them?), and tune in to our next episode of The Science of Beauty, which will be all about wrinkles. We’ll be covering everything from how to minimize them at-home to the most innovative line-smoothing measures available. Trust us, it’s one you won’t want to miss.
Originally Appeared on Allure
