Schiaparelli RTW Fall 2022
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Over the last year, Daniel Roseberry has emerged as the undisputed king of the red carpet. In one three-month period alone, Schiaparelli’s artistic director dressed First Lady Jill Biden, Cardi B, Regina King, Lady Gaga and Adele.
Behind the scenes, he’s also been building a solid ready-to-wear business for the historic house, whose reemergence since its relaunch in 2012 by Italian entrepreneur Diego Della Valle has at times felt painfully slow.
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This season, the label showed its most complete collection yet, spanning everything from daywear to evening clothes in a palette of black, white and gold. The lineup was rooted in strong tailoring, and beefed up with denim and new versions of the trompe-l’oeil knitwear with which Elsa Schiaparelli originally launched the brand in 1927.
Some items featured drawings of body parts, padlocks and measuring tapes that Roseberry made for a tablecloth at the dinner last fall celebrating the opening of Schiaparelli’s first permanent shop at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City. Alongside its historic salon on Place Vendôme in Paris, it’s the brand’s only point of sale worldwide.
As the house prepares to expand distribution, and ahead of the opening of a Schiaparelli retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in July, Roseberry has been delving into the archives to finetune the offering. “It’s just about making things wearable and real, but strong at the same time. It’s really in the service of the client this season,” he said.
Classic pinstriped suits and chic black cocktail dresses contrasted with Surrealist-inspired designs, such as a leather coatdress with spiky protrusions, and a curly cream shearling coat with corset-shaped patent leather insets at the waist.
There were new variations on the cone-breasted denim jacket famously worn by Julia Fox during her short-lived romance with Ye. “You know when it’s good when the whole design team is asking to buy one or wear one,” Roseberry remarked.
Meanwhile, Schiaparelli purists can treat themselves to an updated version of one of her most iconic designs, a coat from her 1938 “Zodiaque” collection, which sold at auction in Paris last year for more than half a million euros. Roseberry’s version comes with white pockets, in lieu of the original pink, and is accessorized with Edward Scissorhands-style hand shears.
Interest in archival designs is sure to skyrocket after the opening of the Paris exhibition, which will focus on Schiaparelli’s life and her relationship with artists such as Man Ray and Salvador Dalí. In the meantime, pop culture is firing the cylinders at the house.
The oversized lung pendant that Bella Hadid wore over her bare chest at the Cannes Film Festival has been reinterpreted as a pendant necklace that anyone could pull off. Roseberry says he’s tired of being asked to define the Schiaparelli woman. Channeling the founder’s provocative attitude, he lobbed the question back: “Who isn’t the Schiaparelli woman?”
Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli RTW Fall 2022
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