Schiaparelli Couture Fall 2022

Add a front-row appearance by Ye to the list of Daniel Roseberry’s celebrity moments at Schiaparelli. In the last year alone the designer has dressed Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Cardi B, Adele, Regina King, Zendaya and Cynthia Erivo, to name just a few.

The presence of the rapper formerly known as Kanye West, accompanied by new flame Julia Fox, was testament to the brand’s heat. Schiaparelli’s first physical runway show since the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic did not disappoint.

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Guests including Chiara Ferragni, Laverne Cox and fellow designers Olivier Rousteing, Simon Porte Jacquemus and Thebe Magugu gathered at the sun-bathed Petit Palais, where Roseberry unveiled his spring collection, titled “An Age of Discipline.”

The designer was referring to his desire to strip back his signature color and billowing volumes this season in favor of a more essential interpretation of the house’s Surrealist codes, rendered in a palette of black, ecru and gold. But the concept of discipline hardly did justice to this flamboyant lineup, which merged the showmanship of the Ziegfeld Follies with the drama of sci-fi costumes.

Roseberry put the accent on tailoring with variations on jackets, some black, with exaggerated shawl collars; others made of ivory canvas with colorful stitching inspired by the technical markings on a couture toile. Last season’s matador jackets inspired a waistcoat jacket embroidered with a palm tree motif that sprouted three-dimensionally from the shoulders, trembling as the model walked.

Moldings of body parts, a key ingredient of recent collections, were absent this season. Instead, gilded accents came in the form of hammered metal curlicues, draped around the neck; a bustier in hand-forged metals, encircling the body in planetary rings, and a Baroque cage dress inspired by the rays of the sun, made of hand-molded leather covered in gold leaf and vintage cabochon stones.

Some looks borrowed from the lexicon of other designers. Hoop dresses and sleeves nodded to the creations of Space Age designer Pierre Cardin, while a gold orb handbag brought to mind Vivienne Westwood’s brand emblem.

But mostly, Roseberry referenced the history of Schiaparelli itself, with items like a black satin tailcoat, worn back-to-front to show off spectacular gold embroidery inspired by founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s “Apollo of Versailles” cape from 1938. Like her, the Texan-born designer knows when to be shocking, and when to pull back.

In an interview with WWD before the show, he said he wanted to test whether he could design without his usual bag of tricks.

“Schiaparelli can go really, really chic and modern and pulled back. And then it can go really into the surreal, into the ethereal, into the dramatic and the otherworldly. And then it can also go into the pop culture and into the zeitgeist and into this kind of hard-hitting cultural conversation,” he noted.

No doubt, celebrity stylists will be clamoring to get theirs hands on these pieces. Let the red carpet games begin.

SEE ALSO:

Schiaparelli Comes Back to the Couture Runway With a New Look

A Year of Celebrities in Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli Designer Talks About Dressing Lady Gaga for the Inauguration

Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2022

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