Saudi 100 Brands Returns to Paris With Full Female-led Brands Lineup

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PARIS — A lineup of 16 all-female-led fashion brands from Saudi Arabia took center stage at the latest edition of the Saudi 100 Brands showroom, which is open to press and buyers here until Friday.

Backed by the Saudi Fashion Commission, which is working to promote local talent at home and abroad, Saudi 100 Brands went for quality over quantity this time. Instead of filling the space with an overwhelming amount of brands — 60 last season — it brought 16 labels that are gaining global recognition in fashion.

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They are Abadia, Apoa, Ashwaq Almarshad, Chador, Charmaleena, Dazluq, Kaf by Kaf, Mashael Al Faris, MD29, Mona Alshebil, Pavone, RMRM, Samar Nasraldin, The Dropped Collection, Yasmina Q and Yataghan.

Guests including Marisa Berenson, Mira Mikati, Sidney Toledano and Xavier Romatet were able to meet with the designers behind these brands and hear their stories and what Paris can offer to them with cultural exchanges like this. A mini-fashion show also took place during the cocktail reception to better present the designs to the audience.

Designer from Apoa, Xavier Romatet, Marie de Foucaud, and Sydney Toledano at Saudi 100 Brands showroom in Paris
Designer from Apoa, Xavier Romatet, Marie de Foucaud, and Sydney Toledano at Saudi 100 Brands showroom in Paris.

Marie de Foucaud, founder and chief executive officer of Elovation Consulting, who oversees the Paris showroom program under the Fashion Commission’s chief executive officer Burak Cakmak, said, “The objective last time was to make it known to the world that the Saudi fashion industry exists. This time, we brought over brands that we thought would be appropriate for Paris, and appeal to international buyers and media.”

She added that by continuously showing in Paris, Saudi 100 Brands reinforces that there’s a real creative movement in Saudi Arabia.

“Saudi Arabia is like any country, you have talent, but the only difference is for now, no one knows it yet. That’s why I’m so motivated by what we do, to show the world that in this country you have talent in many different industries, including fashion, and these people can also start to become part of the international ecosystem,” she added.

The focus on Saudi Arabian female entrepreneurs was a major highlight this season.

“It’s a new era that has started for them and they are so eager to use these new opportunities. These ladies here are willing to show that they can develop a business and build some awareness about the brand,” added de Foucaud.

She pointed to the fashion label Abadia as a prime example of homegrown talent attracting international investment to fuel the next stage of growth.

Shahd AlShehail, founder of Abadia, said she has been showing in Paris since the brand’s first season in 2019 and it managed to survive during the COVID-19 pandemic as its direct-to-consumer model helped it better understand customers’ shifting demands.

“Within the last year, we were ready to open up for wholesale. It has been such a great response. We became the first Saudi brand to be on Net-a-porter, and we are in Harvey Nichols as well as small boutiques,” said AlShehail.

She said Abadia has managed to appeal to a wider audience outside of the Gulf region because the brand has the image of a global, multidimensional woman in mind from the very beginning.

“She buys things that have unique stories to them that represent her styles that feel timeless, not like a moment in time or trend-driven at all. Our aesthetic is always driven by this balance between the contrast between masculine and feminine, structure and flow. You see it in our outerwear and how structured they are, while the flowiness and the feminine elements come across in our dresses,” she added.

AlShehail believes Saudi Arabian designers like her have “a very unique point of view to bring to the global stage when it comes to fashion. We are inspired by our culture and heritage but then very much bringing it to what today looks like.”

Marisa Berenson at Saudi 100 Brands showroom in Paris
Marisa Berenson at Saudi 100 Brands showroom in Paris.

Also feeling the buzz of Paris in the showroom was Apoa, a young fashion jewelry brand that offers bold statement pieces rooted in local culture as well as modern living. It offers playful earrings that are inspired by the moon, octopus, and the architectural style of Saudi Arabia, as well as a tiara resembling the Milky Way at a contemporary price point.

Founded by Noura A. Al Saud, Sara N. Al Saud, and Mashael K. Al Saud, the brand recently launched a collaboration with Ashi Studio during the Paris couture. The brand aims to reach a wider audience through a more global marketing strategy. It also plans to expand from direct-to-consumer online channels to department stores via wholesale with a stand-alone Parisian showroom in the near future.

“The Saudi 100 Brands showroom is a great starting point. It has opened a lot of doors for local designers. In Saudi, there’s a lot of inspiration and great talent, and now they are getting the recognition they deserve, to explore, to be bold, and to be out there,” said the Saud sisters of the ruling royal family of Saudi Arabia.

Yasmina Qanzal, founder of the fashion label Yasmina Q, which pivoted into a knitwear-focused brand during the pandemic to cater to the rising demand for cozy home wear, also agreed that she has been benefiting from the rising awareness of Saudi Arabian talents, thanks to the exposure brought by Saudi 100 Brands.

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