From Santorini to Skiathos, where to stay on the Greek Islands
Please note our writer visited Greece prior to the coronavirus pandemic
Other islands' silhouettes on the horizon, a transparent sea lapping a sand or pebble shore (there’s a special Greek word for the sound – flísvos), a beach bar a few steps away… for many visitors, these are the essentials of a holiday in the Greek islands. Venture further inland, however, and you will find atmospheric villages and monasteries, world-class museums and a laid-back lifestyle.
Corfu
Corfu has figured in our consciousness since Edward Lear visited and painted while it was a British possession from 1814 to 1864. It’s one of the greenest of the Greek islands – thanks to intermittent but torrential rains from September to June, and the thousands of olive trees that carpet the landscape. It is also, perhaps surprisingly, one of the more rural, sleepy islands away from the touristic honeypots.
Where to stay
Delfino Blue Boutique, on the northern edge of Ágios Stéfanos Avliotón, looks across the straits towards the sunset and the islets of Mathráki and Othoní. With its gourmet restaurant, faultless service and intimate interiors, this contemporary boutique hotel particularly appeals to independent travellers, honeymooners and wedding parties.
• The best restaurants in Corfu
Halfway up the north flank of Mt Pandokrátor, the Merchant's House's location is probably the most serene on Corfu. The stars on moonless nights are superb and the owls and crickets provide an atmospheric nocturnal soundtrack once the nearby tavernas shut. Attention to detail and hand-crafted elements were key to restoring this 17th-century, Venetian-era building as a boutique b&b.
• The best things to do in Corfu
Crete
Crete boasts one of the longest beach-lounging seasons; north-coast beaches tend to be long and sandy if a bit exposed, while others are apt to be shorter but more secluded. For those of a non-beachy disposition, there’s plenty of interest inland: exquisitely frescoed country chapels of the 14th and 15th centuries, ruined Minoan palaces and towns, plus top-drawer hiking and botanising opportunities.
Where to stay
Nana Princess's spectacular ‘space age’ spa is probably the most luxurious in Crete. Along with the usual steam room, saunas and pools there are high-tech Nuvola treatment beds, aromatherapy showers, beautiful treatment rooms and relaxation areas, plus a solarium. Two pools are found near the seafront, there's a play pool in the kids’ club and a sheltered, coarse sand beach with a good sprinkling of sunbeds.
• The best restaurants in Crete
Once upon a time this hamlet of stone-built, flat-roofed cottages was seasonally inhabited by the residents of Péfki village during the olive-picking season. Now self-catering accommodation, the cottages are all clean-lined and rustic: think whitewashed stone and varnished cypress-wood trunks. It’s almost troglodytic in style, with natural rock outcrops left in situ to be incorporated into a cottage's floor plan.
• The best things to do in Crete
Fronting Chania’s glorious Venetian harbour, this impeccably smart three-star hotel is close to the area's main sights and a 15-minute walk from a sandy strip of beach. Interiors are a canny blend of modern and cosy, with lots of thoughtful touches, including a machine to polish shoes. Breakfast here is fabuous, served in a delightful little dining room with striking views over the harbour.
• The best all-inclusive hotels in Greece
This sleek and classy Cycladic-style resort is elegantly minimalist: low white buildings, reflected in lagoon-like water features and pools, tumble down a slope to the sea, and huge glass walls give endless sea vistas. Multiple pools include a vast infinity pool with daybeds and wet beds, a smaller pool for children, and a heated indoor spa pool. The Elemis spa has a steam room, sauna, beauty salon and gym. Plenty of sun beds can be found at the strip of sandy beach.
An adults-only water wonderland with a tropical 'Love Island' vibe and generous, friendly service. The stylish resort, all white with lots of blonde wood, canvas and bamboo, is built around one of Europe's largest lagoon pools (inflatable giant flamingos are a nice extra touch). Guests can also use the organised beach and other facilities of neighbouring sister property Stella Village.
A monastery by name and by nature. Striking original features include stone arches, high stone walls and a large chunk of the city’s original Roman walls, which can be seen through glass floors on several levels. There is a small jetted pool, relaxation area and a cramped (but atmospheric) original stone-built Turkish hammam. The Cretan-style cuisine at the hotel's Mon.Es restaurant is inventive and generous.
This luxurious resort, on the outskirts of Chania, is close to a strip of shingle beach in the town of Kolymvari. The main focus of the resort is a large glass-walled pool, flanked by rooms on three floors and several restaurants fringed with small lawns, water features and banks of carefully tended plants. Furniture is simple and sturdy and colours are soothing (beige, charcoal, cream).
Rhodes
With miles of beaches, a forested, mountainous interior, Crusader castles, frescoed churches, one of the finest medieval towns in the Mediterranean and eight sunny months a year, Rhodes can’t help but be a winner for holidaymakers. The walled old town of Rhodes has justly been accorded Unesco World Heritage status, and rarely fails to impress with its sandstone architecture, flying buttresses over cobbled streets and a skyline exotically stooked with minarets and palm trees.
Where to stay
This boutique five-star adults-only resort clambers in tiers down to its own pristine beach. Facilities include a fitness centre, sauna/hammam, appealing spa with indoor swimming pool and thalasso jets, plus a roof terrace with two whirlpools and sun loungers. There are a further two outdoor swimming pools by the restaurant, and another downhill. Free yoga lessons are offered at a shaded, open-air relaxation area.
• 50 amazing mini-moon hotels in Europe
Found on a quiet residential lane in Rhodes' old town, Kókkini Porta Rossa is a stylish boutique hotel. It offers an exclusive ambiance, impeccable decoration, and fine dining, together with personalised service from the Greek owners. Their carefully curated personal collection of Greek antiques and Rhodian artefacts enhance the authentic charm of the property.
• The most amazing hotel infinity pools in Santorini
Santorini
Santorini is really best approached by sea; as your arriving craft manoeuvres over the impossibly midnight blue waters of the caldera, the sheer lava cliffs of the caldera lip, layered in varicoloured rock, loom overhead, with white houses on top like a dusting of snow. It’s one of the spectacles of the Med, as is the reverse practice of staring out over the caldera waters from up top – something not lost on the strangely assorted clientele.
Where to stay
The hotel that put Oia on the map and spawned countless imitators, Perivolas is in a league of its own. Minimalist suites carved from the cliffs are almost as dazzling as the sea views. The infinity pool is the stuff of honeymooners’ dreams. Black stone paths bursting with bright geraniums tumble down to the poolside restaurant and spa. Le Corbusier couldn’t have designed it better.
• The best nightlife in Santorini
Aigialos began life as an 18th-century convent before it passed into the hands of a wealthy local who opened it as five-star accommodation offering sunset views, excellent food and antique furnishings. The diminutive arcaded plunge-pool in the main courtyard, with its cascading bougainvillea, is the convent’s former wine-press. Reception is replete with antiquarian treasures collected by the original owner.
• The best boutique hotels in Santorini
This 18th-century opera house is the dramatic venue for a luxurious one-suite secret retreat in the heart of Thira town's cobbled backstreets. Steps leading down to a spacious vine-shaded sunken courtyard, with cushions on banquette seats next to a deep jetted plunge pool, give a sense of exclusivity. Quality fixtures and finishes throughout heighten the sense of luxury.
• The best hotels in Santorini
This five-star complex of dug-out cave houses are among the best of several in this village. Eleven pre-1956 dwellings or fish-net warehouses have been artfully converted to accommodation in descending tiers at the caldera edge, with sweeping views. Think assiduous but low-key service, and minimalist rooms. Some of the suites have private spa tubs, and there's a nice pool.
• The best restaurants in Santorini
Canaves Oia Epitome overlooks Ammoudi Bay and is within strolling distance of viewing Oia’s famed sunsets. There’s a whiff of exclusivity as you enter, past high volcanic black stone walls lined with flowering shrubs and into the light-filled glass-walled reception. All rooms are sunset facing with full or partial sea views, and have heated pools or plunge pools, and terraces.
• The best things to do in Santorini
Mykonos
Once among the poorest, barest Greek islands, Mykonos – starting in the late 1950s – became a bohemian mecca and is now one of the glitziest, most renowned tourist destinations in the country. This central Cyclade was briefly the premier Mediterranean resort for LGBT travellers, though since then Mykonos has tried to reinvent itself for a more varied clientele.
Where to stay
Romantic and elegantly minimalist. Staff at Mykonos Grand make the place; nothing seems too much trouble. A Delos-view ampitheatre hosts yoga or pilates sessions, and the spa includes a squash court and hi-tech gym. The beach is essentially private and quiet, without water sports or moored gin palaces. A large seawater outdoor pool is equipped with posh day-beds, squishy cushions and shady pergolas.
The Grace Mykonos has made a name for itself with its accommodation, attentive service and excellent food (think expertly rendered seafood, creative desserts and a strong wine list). Inside, it’s all about understated luxury and ultra-clean lines. A neutral colour palette prevails, with the only bright accents being art in the lobby. The pool is a highlight, and there's a small spa and well-equipped gym.
• The best restaurants in Mykonos
Many of the whitewashed, airy rooms, suites and villas at this hotel come with their own infinity pools or hot tubs. Each benefits from a real private and exclusive feel, with five-star hotel service. You probably won’t feel the need to go anywhere, with rooms and terraces made for lingering, a beautiful infinity pool and a complimentary shuttle bus to the nearby private beach.
• The best nightlife in Mykonos
Santa Marina is built like a secluded private village on a hillside in the southernmost corner of beautiful Ornos Bay, affording sea views of the region. Exteriors are in tune with the simple cubist architecture native to the Cyclades, such as stacked stonework and whitewashed walls. Top-level services, such as a helipad and private pier, are available. At the Ginkgo Spa, water freely flows underneath raised floor tiles to create a zen-like welcome upon entering. Guests can cool off at two sizable infinity pools and have access to a sandy private beach.
• The best things to do in Mykonos
Hydra
Sumptuous mansions and humbler vernacular homes arrayed amphitheatrically around Hydra’s marble-quayed harbour date from the 18th and 19th centuries, when Hydriot seafaring prowess brought great wealth. The island remains endearingly time-warped: as a listed architectural reserve, all new construction is (theoretically) banned, and it’s blissfully free of motor vehicles except for a few miniature rubbish trucks – photogenic donkeys (or mules) do most haulage. The clip-clop of the beasts' hooves on marble pavement and their drovers' cries are very much part of the soundtrack here.
Where to stay
This converted mansion was among the first boutique hotels on the island and takes its name from one of the Russian Orloff brothers, a favourite of Catherine the Great's who fomented an unsuccessful Greek revolt against the Ottomans from 1770 onwards. Interiors are decorated with original features, including wooden-plank floors and painted wood ceilings, and furnished with antiques.
Hydra's most intimate (and secluded) boutique hotel, the Phaedra musters just six units over two storeys. The name recalls the 1962 film shot locally, with Melina Mercouri and Anthony Perkins playing the leads. Interiors are homely and feature beige walls and wood trims, and there are private entrances for all the units – no dingy, cramped hallways here. Several of them have stunning mountainside views.
Patmos
Patmos’s volcanic geology, with basalt formations pointing evocatively skyward and quirky islets floating just offshore, adds to the palpably spiritual atmosphere. But the corporeal certainly gets a look-in, with excellent beaches and arguably the most varied clientele of any Greek island, ranging from backpackers to current and deposed European royalty.
Where to stay
This bungalow-hotel-with-a-difference occupies a north-east-facing slope beyond Sápsila district, amidst carefully tended gardens of hibiscus, sunflowers, acacia, African succulents and even a vegetable patch. The hotel's interiors feature lots of wood, stone and brick, with pointed tawny volcanic masonry outside. Below the gardens spreads the sizeable, deep swimming pool, flanked by a communal whirlpool.
What rented rooms or apartments in Greece should always have: a peaceful garden setting, welcoming proprietors, and stylish interiors. The lovingly tended gardens are a major plus and a great place to while away a morning or an early evening, with two sheltered gazebos and a barbecue area. There's a museum's worth of bygone rural impedimenta displayed in the lush communal gardens.
• The best all-inclusive hotels in Greece
Paros
Paros has a bit of everything you’d expect from an island in the Cyclades – whitewashed villages, blue-domed churches, blonde-sand beaches, fishing harbours overlooked by taverna tables, plus lively bars and cafés. The landscape is perhaps not the most dramatic, with its modest 771-metre (2,388ft) -high Ágii Pándes summit, but from the ring road the views out to sea over dozens of surrounding islands are unbeatable.
Where to stay
The Hotel Petres is an enduringly popular, small-scale rural retreat with exceptionally gracious hosts. The style is contemporary but understated. Facilities include an unusually large pool with adjacent fireplace lounge for spring nights, a shaded day-bed area, tennis court, and a small gym with sauna and hot tub. It's supremely relaxing, and thus a popular final stop for those on island-hopping tours.
A private oasis. This pension punches above its weight with superior rooms, an idyllic garden setting and scrumptious breakfasts that eclipse those served at many hotels. Considerable effort has gone into creating the lush lawn-garden-orchard which surrounds the place, dotted with water features, hammocks and gazebos. Livádia beach is just three blocks away.
• The best hotels in the Cyclades
Naxos
The largest and loftiest of the Cyclades, rugged Naxos is one of the few Greek islands besides Crete that could feed itself – you see flocks of sheep, goats and cattle everywhere, along with all manner of market gardens. The local small potatoes are renowned, commanding a price premium, as do a range of island cheeses. The biggest draw is Naxos’s entire southwest-facing coast which, from the resort of Ágios Prokópios down to Agiassós near the island’s southerly cape, essentially forms one great long beach, separated by little headlands.
Where to stay
The definition of barefoot luxury. This peaceful hilltop collection of chic, minimalist villas houses a friendly and elegant hotel with a simple but top-notch restaurant. Striking views over a lagoon and Naxos Town give an excellent sense of place – and the beach is just a walk away. Everything from the sculptures carved from the island’s own marble to the impeccable service is designed to make you feel at home.
• The best restaurant is Naxos
The Kavos Hotel Naxos, just above Ágios Prokópios resort, is an ocean-view establishment offering stone-clad cottages, neutral interiors and excellent food. Built in 1990 but updated regularly since, the Kavos was among the first developments here, snaffling a prime position, 10 minutes’ walk from the nearest beach.
• The best things to do in Naxos
Skiathos
Skiathos was the first northern Sporade to be developed, back in the mid-1960s. It’s not hard to see why, with more than 50 beaches lapped by an almost Caribbean-coloured sea, plus a lushly green backdrop inland. Its original forest, alas, has burnt frequently, but such is the humid climate and ample groundwater that replacement growth springs up quickly. A busy yacht marina and drydock are a natural outgrowth of the traditional local caique-building industry.
Where to stay
Whitewashed walls, stone pathways and steep ascents give this bijou set-up a refreshingly unpretentious feel, while a muted colour palette, fluttering drapes and beautifully furnished common areas up the luxe factor. A peaceful pool and laid-back vibe make Aegean Suites a relaxing place to stay. But for larger spa facilities, restaurants and beautiful beach guests can head to sister property, Skiathos Princess.
With pink sunsets, shady pine trees and views for miles, hotel settings don’t come more striking than this. Step out of the art-filled lobby onto the sweeping terrace and you’ll get the measure of the place instantly: stylish without being soulless, slick but serene. If you’re looking for elegant details, smooth service and seriously Instagrammable backdrops, Elivi Skiathos is the place to be.
• The best attractions in Skiathos
Skiathos isn't short of beach hotels but few are blessed with a swathe of sand as impressive as this, and despite its rep as the island's favourite five-star, the Princess is still a family-run labour of love and it shows in the details. You might already be sold on the beach-front location, there's plenty more where that came from, including spot-on service, family-friendly activities and stylish interiors.
