Salicylic Acid Will Clear Your Skin and Get Rid of Your Dandruff. Here’s How to Use It.
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If we were to make a roundup of the absolute most important active ingredients in skincare, there’s no question that salicylic acid would clear the top five. For some people, it might even take the top spot—especially those dealing with oily or acne-prone skin. And while salicylic acid has gotten most of its accolades for its skill at clearing out the pores and preventing breakouts, its benefits extend well beyond those two abilities.
Read on for a spotlight on salicylic acid and its many complexion-perfecting powers, with insight from board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD of Shafer Plastic Surgery in NYC.
Salicylic Acid as an Exfoliator
One reason salicylic acid is most commonly highlighted as an exfoliating and acne-busting agent is that it is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). BHAs are usually mentioned with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like lactic acid and glycolic acid, the most common surface-level exfoliants in skincare. “AHAs are derived from sugar cane and are water-soluble, so they loosen the uppermost layers of skin’s surface to remove dead skin cells and reveal a brighter complexion,” Engelman explains. “AHAs also boost collagen synthesis which can minimize signs of aging including the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.”
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However, as a BHA, salicylic acid is oil soluble and is thus able to penetrate the surface of the skin, through the lipid layer and into the pores. Here, salicylic acid dissolves that excess oil and trapped skin cells, though it can also break down dead surface-level skin cells en route. (For the record, salicylic acid is not the only BHA, but for now, it’s the most common one used in skincare. Others include beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid.)
The Other Benefits of Salicylic Acid
Here are all of the ways salicylic acid can benefit you in a big way (and not just your facial complexion); Engelman ranks each of these functions highly in terms of the ingredient’s performance.
Unclogging pores: “Salicylic acid is keratolytic [or keratin-dissolving], making it extremely effective at clearing dead skin cells on the surface of skin and within pores,” says Engelman. “Salicylic acid is also oil-soluble, which gives it the ability to travel deep into the skin and pores, and clear them of excess sebum (skin’s natural oil).”
Exfoliating dead surface cells: Again, as a keratolytic, salicylic acid effectively dissolves dead skin cells, Engelman notes. It does this at the surface of skin and within the pores. The result: Smoother and brighter skin, and fewer blemishes.
Toning oil levels: As an extension of salicylic acid’s ability to flush out excess oil from the pores, Engelman adds that the ingredient’s immediate function is to regulate oil production. Continued use could help train the skin to produce less oil over time.
Clearing flakes/dandruff: It is increasingly common for salicylic acid to appear in anti-dandruff shampoos. “Salicylic acid can slough dead skin cells on the scalp and regulate oil production,” says Engelman. “In doing so, it breaks down dead skin cells that can cause buildup, itchiness, flakiness, and dryness.”
Reducing inflammation: Here’s an underappreciated benefit of the ingredient, according to Engelman. “Salicylic acid can also be used to even skin tone that has been affected by skin conditions including psoriasis,” she says. “Its anti-inflammatory properties can reduce redness and swelling as it removes the dead skin cells that might irritate the skin.”
How to Use Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is safe to use both morning and night, on freshly cleansed skin. But you want to pay attention to is the concentration and aim of the product you’re using. You can find salicylic acid in serums, moisturizers, shampoos, cleansers, toners, spot treatments, and more. So it’s perfectly fine to use a cleanser twice daily if it has a low concentration of salicylic acid. But if the product in question has a two to three percent concentration of salicylic acid, you may want to reserve it for nighttime use, so that your skin can recover from any redness as you sleep. Also, despite salicylic acid’s anti-inflammatory properties, it can still cause initial redness or sensitivity in higher concentrations. Engelman says that there’s no one-size-fits-all with the ingredient, so find what works for your skin and routine.
She adds that it’s fine to use salicylic acid in the evening alongside retinol, which clears up a common misconception. “As these are two strong ingredients with potentially irritating side effects, I suggest doing so carefully and gradually,” Engelman adds. “Especially if you have sensitive skin. Using salicylic acid in the morning, then retinol at night (starting once a week, then slowly increasing to multiple times a week) can be a good way for beginner users to adjust their skin to the ingredients and avoid irritation.” She adds that people with oily, acne-prone, or well-adjusted skin can consider products that combine salicylic acid with retinol, too. (She calls out Glo Skin Beauty’s Beta-Clarity BHA Drops for this reason. More on that product below.)
She does recommend avoiding the pairing of salicylic acid with benzoyl peroxide, though, mostly because of redundancy. “These are both powerful exfoliants that offer similar benefits to one another, so there is no need to double up,” Engelman explains.
Lastly, if you have extremely sensitive or dry skin, Engelman suggests speaking first with your board-certified dermatologist to figure out the best path forward.
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