A Ryokan-Inspired Rainforest Escape on British Columbia’s Bowen Island
It’s six o’clock in the morning, and the soft pastel light of the sunrise is starting to make its way through the branches of the evergreen trees just outside my window. I’m up early for a private morning soak in the bathhouse at Kitoki Inn, a boutique escape on British Columbia’s wildly beautiful Bowen Island. The bathhouse, which draws inspiration from Japanese onsen, is only steps from my cabin. From the vantage point of the open-air hot tub, a lush rainforest of cedars and firs lies just beyond. In the calm morning air and with the sound of the wind gently rustling through the trees, a moment of serenity here feels natural and effortless.
Bowen Island is just a short 20-minute ferry ride away from Vancouver, but the leisurely pace of life and rugged beauty feels far removed from the commotion of the city. For the uninitiated, the tiny islands that sit off of Vancouver’s coast are blanketed with a temperate rainforest of lush ferns and towering evergreens. The waters are home to playful sea otters, and orcas are often spotted from shore. It’s an idyllic setting for Kitoki Inn, a set of three minimal cabins alongside the Japanese-style bathhouse in the heart of Bowen Island.
From the moment that I step onto the property, there’s a profound sense of calm. All I can hear are birds chirping in a nearby tree and my own footsteps on the gravel path. The owner of Kitoki Inn, Mitsumi Kawai, tells me that the name Kitoki translates to “tree and spirit,” an encouragement to connect with both oneself and the natural world. “We envisioned Kitoki as a true retreat,” Mitsumi explains to me. “A place to unplug and reconnect, and leave feeling ready to re-enter the world with a sense of peace.”
Mitsumi Kawai and her co-owner husband, Rob Leadley, are hospitality veterans. They previously opened Kuma in British Columbia’s surf capital, Tofino, which serves ramen and casual Japanese comfort food. They’re also the creators behind Shika Provisions, a little shop that offered takeaway rice bowls in Bowen Island’s main town, Snug Cove. But it wasn’t until an extended trip to Japan, while staying at traditional Japanese inns, or ryokans, that they found the inspiration for their next project. Mitsumi tells me that the idea to create an inn and bathhouse came to them while walking along the Philosopher’s Path, a stone walkway in Kyoto that’s over one hundred years old. They came home, bought the property on Bowen Island, and Kitoki Inn opened its doors in the summer of 2021.
When designing Kitoki Inn, Mitsumi envisioned weaving together a minimal Japanese aesthetic with the natural beauty of Bowen Island. The result is something that feels truly unique in the Pacific Northwest. Each cedar cabin is staggered for privacy, giving you the feeling of having your own personal forest getaway. Custom wooden furnishings make thoughtful use of the space, and a well-stocked kitchen is perfect for impromptu meals. Windows are designed to let in ample natural light, yet allow for privacy. A decadently comfortable couch and a covered porch are both leisurely spots to relax and gaze at the trees.
The covered, open-air bathhouse includes an oversized hot tub and hydrotherapy shower for a deeply restorative outdoor spa experience. A handmade knotted noren, or hanging fabric, drapes gently across the entryway, while a garden with a wood-burning fireplace beckons for post-soak relaxation. With guests able to book two private 90-minute sessions per day, rest and wellness are central at Kitoki Inn. Mitsumi also notes that the bathhouse makes Kitoki a year-round escape. “In the winter, there’s a whole other kind of beauty to experience here. You can soak in the bathhouse, overlooking the misty forest.”
Perhaps what’s most special about Kitoki Inn are the details. A cast-iron teapot and wide selection of teas invite a contemplative sip on a drizzly morning. Bath products from local brand Sangre de Fruta bring the woodsy scents of the forest indoors. Earthy yet refined ceramics from local artist Babette Deggan are artfully placed throughout the cabin. The luxe quilts that adorn each bed are handmade by Mitsumi’s mother, Miju Kawai.
Kitoki Inn doesn’t have a restaurant, but it doesn’t need one. Breakfast is homemade and offered in-suite. From matcha ginger granola with fresh blueberries to sweet potato muffins with a crumbly almond streusel, breakfast is best enjoyed on the cabin’s back porch, overlooking the swaying grass against the deep green of the fir trees. For lunch and dinner, the island’s main town, Snug Cove, is a short fifteen-minute walk away through a series of forest trails. Coastal-inspired tacos with wild Haida Gwaii salmon are on offer at Branch, or dine outdoors under the shelter of a cherry tree on French bistro-style plates at Rustique.
With a serene beauty that encourages doing little, you’d be forgiven for spending the entirety of your trip to Bowen Island at Kitoki Inn itself—soaking in that tub, reading while overlooking towering trees, or wandering through the forest trails that begin just off-property. But, if you’re tempted to explore the surrounding area, options are abundant. A hike up to the island’s highest peak, Mount Gardner, offers views of the cerulean expanse of Howe Sound. A pilgrimage to a 1,000-year-old Douglas fir, dubbed “Opa Tree” by locals, is an opportunity to marvel at the ancient landscape. Or, paddle by kayak through the sparkling seas and spy seals basking in the sun on the rocky coast.
Throughout my stay at Kitoki Inn, I felt an irresistible sense of peace unfold. After spending a good portion of the year within the four walls of my apartment, it was a relief to be immersed in the outdoors—gazing at the misty rainforest, sipping on a steaming cup of tea on the porch, watching eagles soar with confidence overhead.
Originally Appeared on Vogue
