The Rye Whiskey Made For Wine Drinkers
I recently received a coveted invitation to attend a WhistlePig event in Houston, Texas where the Master Blender Meghan Ireland and Brand Manager Derek Hamilton came to town. Since I live in Los Angeles the kind folks got me into an airplane and flew me out to attend what turned out to be one of the most eye-opening tastings I've been a part of in years...breaking down the components of their 12 Year Old World Rye. In the simplest of terms, it was an opportunity to get to know the blending process. But the exercise proved to be so much more than that. A night of industry folks coming together to start with a New York Sour...why is it called a New York Sour?! Because of the red wine float, naturally. Then the opportunity to sit down with the three components that get blended into the magical finished product truly provided an insight into where X-marks-the-spot of wine & whiskey lovers coming together. Unity of GRAPE & GRAIN.
The components of WhistlePig's 12 Year Old World Rye are aged in American Oak for just south of 12 years, but their last 2-4 months of oak elaboration happen in some magical wine barrels, seasoned by Sauternes, Madeira, and Port. For those unfamiliar, Sauternes is a noble sweet wine made in the Bordeaux region of France, where the grape Semillon develops botrytis, a fungus that envelops the grape entirely and allows the sugars to concentrate without the normal pressure from the outside world. Madeira is an island way off the coast of West Africa, but it belongs to Portugal. The infamous sweet wines produced on the island are made unlike any other on the planet: fortified, then exposed to heat and sun, an all-out barrage that makes the wine impenetrable. What a magical elixir. Lastly, Port, is grown in the Douro Valley east of the Portuguese town of Porto, then aged in the more humid cellars of Vila Nova di Gaia, just across the Douro River from Porto. This fortified wine has rallied markets and been shipped all around the world for hundreds of years. Each of these three wines spend a good amount of time in oak, and the effect of each on said oak was something I hadn't been able to explore. This tasting provided the insight.
The final blend of WhistlePig's 12 Year Old World Rye comes from 63% Madeira aged, 30% Sauternes aged, and 7% Port aged. The Madeira component brought the structure and body, lending some rancio and umami notes. The Sauternes component was definitely softened with a floral and fruit-forward edge. The Port aged component showed the most broad-shouldered, with a pronounced spice and meatiness to it. The old adage rings true, This 12 Year Old World Rye is truly bigger than the sum of its parts. A wine lovers dream, looking for a foray into the whiskey world.