This Russian Lingerie Label Is Creating Cozy, Comfortable, and Sexy Underwear for All

This Russian Lingerie Label Is Creating Cozy, Comfortable, and Sexy Underwear For All

While the West seems to be making strides in the realm of body-positive lingerie—cue the mentions of labels like Lonely and Land of Women—Russia’s underpinnings industry is developing slowly by comparison, still focused on fussy lace and rigid wires. One new label, however, is looking to change the top-drawer landscape. Irma’s silhouettes are powerful, yet boast a cheeky ’80s flair: Underwear is pulled up high above the hip bones, while bras range from flexible-wired versions with spaghetti straps to a more full-coverage sporty bandeau style. Bras and panties come in basic colors of black, white, and fire-engine red, range from $25 to $55, and are offered in extra-small to extra-large.

The line was launched earlier this year by a concept-store buyer and a production manager in Moscow. (Both prefer to remain anonymous.) “We both have different experiences here,” says one of the creators in an email. “One of us is always seeking cool, edgy designs in lingerie, which led to buying lingerie from the 1990s in weird places like vintage markets and resale platforms. Another one of us has a curvy shape, so finding a perfect fit was a struggle.” The name Irma may seem granny-ish to Western ears, but the duo consider it a strong name to “reflect the spirit of the label.” Irma’s unapologetic attitude is seen in its inaugural lookbook, which shows the garments worn by local strippers of varying sizes. The decision to use the women instead of models came from another stereotype the duo want to break: “We wanted to give this theme more exposure and show a stripper as an inspiring professional dancer,” they say.

Irma’s styles look nothing like the mass-market counterparts in its home country. “The Russian market totally lacks so-called ‘cozy’ lingerie,” write the duo. “Most of the stores here display all sorts of underwear—femme fatale lace, bright girly prints—but not comfortable and minimalistic styles for everyday wear.” Many women end up heading to street bazaars to find non-branded pieces. “Russian women differ in terms of body type like anywhere else, but most of the designer stores are targeted for those who wear size small, medium, and maybe large so the rest of the customers are cut off by it,” they say. “It’s probably because of a popular stereotype: A woman in Russia should be skinny, like, with no extra weight at all, even if it’s curves.”

Though more body-friendly lingerie could be ordered from abroad or bought in boutique stores in major cities, the creators say that Russia’s faltering economy necessitated a local alternative. “The ruble dropped 15 percent to the dollar and the euro, so it’s almost impossible to maintain competitive prices,” they explain. “Products made in the USA or France become luxury when they pass customs, so creating a locally made and friendly priced line seems to be a right move.” To counter high costs, the two manufacture the in neighboring Ukraine. So far, customers are happy with the product as well as the label’s philosophy. “Irma’s goal is to educate the modern generation and give it more freedom in choosing lingerie regardless of body types,” they say. “If we will help at least one girl to feel better about herself, that’s already a win.”