Rosettes Are Blooming Fast on SS24 Runways
"Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking." Fictional fashion icon, Miranda Priestly's quote is engraved into any fashion girly's brain. Yet, as fashion month comes to a close, we can't help but notice the outpouring of rosettes popping up across Spring/Summer 2024 runways that far surpass recent seasons. We've spotted rosettes as appliques, on choker necklaces, as metallic accessories and belts as well as full garments making it the gender-neutral accessory of the season. But, why now?
There's no denying that womenswear is at its peak hyper-femininity era. Currently TikTok aesthetics like "balletcore," "coquette" and "school girl" are ruling everyone's FYPs which include frills, pink, lace, bows and all things flirty and feminine. We also cannot forget the Barbie movie which had all of us blushing in pink this summer and how healing the film was for women reclaiming their girlhood. This exploration of femininity has the girlies feeling confident and empowered to wear what they please without feeling ashamed. TikTok Fashion analyst Mina Li, known for her video essays on Youtube says we're in a "girl economy" while Alex Quicho argues in her recent Wired article that "Everyone is a girl online." Rosettes for spring might not be groundbreaking, but women are blossoming and brands are listening.
Take a look at how some of our favorite designers are stopping to smell the roses this SS24 season from New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Palomo Spain
Starting New York Fashion Week strong, Palomo Spain took us through a whimsical garden where designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo invited viewers to The Plaza's Terrace Room filled with roses, inspired by Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. The clothes themselves are a queer fantasy. Besides feathers and bows, rosettes were seen on sheer camisole dresses, larger-than-life appliques and most eye-catching, chrome roses as accessories. Palomo Spain proves that femininity applies to all who enjoy the romantic things in life.
Sandy Liang
The queen of the Lower East Side, the ruler of coquette goodness, Sandy Laing returned this season with an updated version of "The Sandy Uniform." We saw the return of brand staples such as pleated skirts, ballet flats, bows and the emergence of rosettes which enhance what we already know and love about Liang. Rosettes are specifically seen nestled on top of bow appliques, accentuating the waistline and wrapped around in vine-shaped form.
Tanner Fletcher
For Tanner Fletcher's SS24 showcase, the brand leaned into the world of pleated tops, jorts, grandma core knits, and, of course, their iconic bow suits. But the duo had a different idea of incorporating rosettes as 3D crochet embellishments, creating an animated feel to this season's runway trend. These crochet rosettes are seen booming on cardigans, socks and vests as well as a white strapless dress.
Willy Chavarria
Willy Chavarria's SS24collection explored Chavarria's relationship to Latinidad and Catholicism. We see a spin on the classic men's boutonnieres in the form of blazers with large red roses attached to the lapels. Red roses were also incorporated on cowboy hats, a nod to rancheros. Throughout this collection, roses served as a nod to Chavarria's Mexican-America identity as roses symbolize passion, beauty and grace.
Simone Rocha
London Fashion Week favorite Simone Rocha wanted us to smell the roses as models walked the runway holding beaded flowers with their stems attached. As for the clothes, Rocha presented her classic voluminous silhouettes with large rosettes taking over both womenswear and menswear. For the final looks, we saw a transition from fabric rose appliques to real roses tucked in between sheer panels of tulle dresses.
Blumarine
Blumarine's heavenly SS24 presentation is Y2K angel-core to the max. Though winged angles took center stage as the central motif, rosettes made a subtle approach as embellishments on flowy tops, corsets and brown denim dresses. Models also dawned acrylic, see-through rosette accessories as earrings and chain belts.
Marni
Marni nods its hat to Mother Nature as it presents florals as an homage to Francesco Risso's time spent in Paris during his youth. Key elements presented in this show were whimsical collaged flower garments with metallic roses protruding sculpturally. For accessories, Marni enhanced the floral concept with silver chrome rosettes and handmade necklaces.
UNDERCOVER
Jun Takahashi's UNDERCOVER showcase presented itself in a hauntingly beautiful manner. Three mini strapless dresses walked down the runway as the lights dropped to close the show. Their skirts lit up to present terrariums within them, complete with butterflies and roses that mystified the audience.
