New Rochester restaurant has echoes of an old favorite. Take a peek

Tracy Schuhmacher, Rochester Democrat and Chronicle
·3 min read

When customers walk in the door at the newest restaurant in the South Wedge, they often will say one of two things:

"Wow, this place looks completely different."

Or, to co-owner Bob Caranddo: "We loved Orbs. We're glad you're back."

Welcome to Angelina's, at the corner of South Avenue and Gregory Street in the former home to The Toasted Bear Tavern, and before that, Beale Street Cafe.

Gone from the 4,000-square-foot space are the wood paneled walls, New Orleans-style murals and musty carpet. Owners Caranddo, Dan Patterson and Bruce Ingersall, along with interior designer Sue Caranddo, have transformed it into a bright, comfortable, modern restaurant with neutral colors and floor-to-ceiling windows that look out onto the hub of the neighborhood.

Co-owner Bob Caranddo sits for a brief moment in the main dining room before the dinnertime rush at Angelina's on South Avenue in Rochester's South Wedge Neighborhood Wednesday, May 15, 2024.
Co-owner Bob Caranddo sits for a brief moment in the main dining room before the dinnertime rush at Angelina's on South Avenue in Rochester's South Wedge Neighborhood Wednesday, May 15, 2024.

"This is what a neighborhood place should be like," said Bob Caranddo.

Angelina's opened on May 7, six years to the day that Caranddo closed the well-liked Orbs Restaurant, which was just down the street. Orbs specialized in meatballs and other spherical foods, along with cheeky humor, like takeout bags labeled "ball sack."

Echos of Orbs have made their way to Angelina's ― none of the gimmicks, but rather a few dishes, a hodgepodge of photos and artwork and, most importantly, some key staff members. "I learned from Orbs, they're what make you or break you," Caranddo said.

Katelin Rubens, who is now head chef, was a rambunctious 22-year-old when she worked at Orbs and subsequently went on to private clubs and fine dining. Jim Kempkes, who was famed for being able to roll as many as 800 meatballs a day, is sous chef. Kimbo Yews Brozic, who is also a graffiti artist, is bar manager. "I loved that place (Orbs)," Brozic said. "I never wanted to leave,"

The approachable menu developed by Rubens leans meaty, but there are vegetarian and vegan selections. Small plates include littleneck clams served in a flavorful tomato and clam broth that's strewn with chorizo, white beans and wilted baby kale; crostini are at the ready to sop up the remains of the broth. Another small plate: crispy pork belly served in an Asian-inspired sauce along with tender-crisp broccolini and garnishes of sesame seeds and puffed rice.

Head chef Katelin Rubens with a finished dish of clams in the bar area at the newly opened Angelina's.
Head chef Katelin Rubens with a finished dish of clams in the bar area at the newly opened Angelina's.

Among the mains: steak frites, burgers, pastas and seafood dishes like shrimp and grits.

Carryovers from the Orbs days include a meatball small plate served with olive tapenade, crostini, tomato relish and Cotija cheese, as well a pasta main dish with meatballs and stracciatella cheese. For dessert, there are sfingi, spherical Sicilian doughnuts served with seasonal fruits and sauces. The current preparation includes grilled peaches, peach coulis and a vanilla crème anglaise.

For libations, Brozic concocted craft cocktails that are simple but delicious riffs on classics. The Tipping Point is a spin on the former Orbs old fashioned; it's made with bourbon, strawberry maple syrup, lemon and whiskey barrel bitters and garnished simply with orange peel. Come Monday, named for a Jimmy Buffet song, is a like a coconutty daiquiri, prepared with house made ingredients instead of artificially flavored mixers.

Just over a dozen wines on the wine list come from Italy, Spain, California and New Zealand. From the Finger Lakes, a Ravines Dry Riesling is served. You'll find an assortment of craft beers, mass produced beers, a local cider and canned boozy beverages. For teetotalers, there are nonalcoholic beers and zero proof beverages made with fresh squeezed juices and seasonal house made syrups.

If you go

The newly opened Angelina's, located at 689 South Avenue, at the intersection with Gregory Street, in Rochester's South Wedge Neighborhood.
The newly opened Angelina's, located at 689 South Avenue, at the intersection with Gregory Street, in Rochester's South Wedge Neighborhood.

Angelina's is at 689 South Ave. Parking is on the street.

It is open 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Accessibility: The space does not have steps, though the door and restrooms may not be wide enough to accommodate some wheelchairs.

Reservations are recommended; call (585) 435-4039. Find more information at angelinasonsouth.com.

Tracy Schuhmacher covers Rochester's food and drink scene. Notice something open or close in your neighborhood? Send tips to tracys@gannett.com.

This article originally appeared on Rochester Democrat and Chronicle: Angelina's restaurant opens in South Wedge in Rochester NY