The departure couldn’t have been more radical. After presenting an all-black ensemble last season, Rochas creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua found himself craving color. “I wanted something that popped, a big energy for spring,” he said backstage. “Usually Rochas is darker, more theatrical and dramatic. But this season it’s all about a light and colorful femininity.”
There was nothing saccharine about the vibrant looks that careered down the runway. Colors clashed together in pleasant pairings — cobalt blue cropped cotton trousers with a lime green blouse, a pale yellow version paired with a long green leather blazer — or were given the center stage on full silhouettes. A red sleeveless dress with a ruffled hem and a tie neck was a glorious alternative to all-black eveningwear.
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Sometimes the color touches were subtle, like a red silk belt left undone and trailing in the model’s wake. The designer singled out a prim embroidered brocade dress, its cream fabric glittering with rhinestones — while backstage it looked demure, on the runway, once paired with a pair of yellow metallic kitten heels, it took on a more modern vibe. On a number a silhouettes, the zingy shoes counterbalanced buttoned-up looks: A simple cream leather peacoat looked almost fierce when coupled with electric blue pumps with oversize metallic pearls on their front.
The collection was infused with energy. “I wanted to focus on colors and materials — there are no patterns on the garments,” Dell’Acqua said. The simple cuts allowed some of the standout fabrics to shine: The straight neckline of a golden spaghetti-strap dress prevented it from being to princess-y, while a long sleeveless dress baring the model’s shoulders had nifty pockets hidden it its billowing canary yellow fabric. There were no handbags in sight — perhaps this season’s Rochas woman finds them too fussy? The show closed to the sound of PJ Harvey’s “Down by the Water,” the perfect soundtrack for the collection’s don’t-mess-with-me vibe.
Launch Gallery: Rochas RTW Spring 2020