GIF: Robin Black
There are few things more exciting for a makeup artist than collaborating on a live presentation or a runway show. Being the key artist for the very cool David Koma and his first collection as the new design director of Thierry Mugler was a particular thrill. For the Mugler Resort Collection 2015 presentation, Clarins provided the makeup. (It’s one of my favorite brands, and Virginie Clarins is the new director of development of Mugler.)
Photo: Ben Ritter
Creating a makeup and hair look for a new fashion collection is different than styling a person to look fabulous for a magazine shoot or even for a red-carpet event. The look must be coordinated with the clothes; it can’t fight the collection or be the star of the show. But it does need to be unique and cohesive.
It all starts with a test day. On the Sunday prior to the presentation, I went to Milk Studios in New York City to work with David Koma, Charlie Taylor (hair stylist), and Steffi Soede (model) for an intensive concept session.
David’s team rolled out racks of his latest designs, featuring a black and white palette of women’s clothes with bursts of red-orange, cobalt, electric yellow, and navy. David’s design emphasis was on modern, sophisticated shapes, with sleek tailoring and architectural elements.
At first glance, I thought bold, graphic eyeliner would make sense with the strong silhouettes, but the makeup needed to be more subtle. Charlie created a sleek, low ponytail, something a woman could do herself—unfussy, but polished, leaving Steffi’s face open and highlighting the skin.
As inspiration, sometimes I imagine a specific sort of woman wearing the clothes. For this collection, I thought of a woman leaping out of bed the morning after a glamorous party. She would pull her hair back into a low pony and then dash out the door for brunch with dewy skin, thanks to a drop of Clarins' Double Serum , flushed cheeks, and nude eyes. The only question was, does she put on lipstick before she leaves the house?
We tried four Clarins Rouge Eclat Lipsticks ($27) (admittedly more than this effortlessly chic woman would). Nude Caramel felt flat; Juicy Clementine was too bold. True Aubergine needed mascara for balance, but WoodRose, a universally flattering “bitten lip” shade, was exactly what I wanted: the color of lips post-kissing.
For a true, “I-just-had-an-epic-makeout-session” look, skip lip liner and apply the lipstick directly to the natural shape of your lips. Blot the corners and edges of your mouth with your finger to remove excess shine. Et voila! You're runway—and/or brunch—ready.