The Rise of BB Cream and Why We're Hooked

@alessandragl | Design by Zackary Angeline
@alessandragl | Design by Zackary Angeline

Reviewed by Ashley Rebecca

When the beauty industry comes out with a skincare/makeup hybrid, the world takes note. And while BB creams were big news years ago thanks to Korea's niche beauty products, the multitasking product is on the rise again. But what exactly is BB cream, and what does it do?

Essentially, the product lightly covers discoloration and often includes ingredients that work to improve skin tone. "The main benefit of BB cream is that it offers a sheer source of hydration," says Sir John. But it's pretty easy these days to find a BB cream that does more than just blend skin tone.

To learn more about BB cream and its magical powers, we turned to three celebrity makeup artists and dermatologist Dr. Rachel Nazarian, for their expert advice on the benefits of BB cream, how to apply it, and how to find the best one for your skin type.



Meet the Expert

  • Sir John is a celebrity makeup artist who counts Beyoncé, Chrissy Teigen, Mary J. Blige, and Serena Williams as clients.

  • Kat Dorn is a celebrity makeup artist at Lrn Beauty.

  • Ashley Gomila is a celebrity makeup artist.

  • Rachel Nazarian, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology in New York City,



Keep reading for a complete guide to understanding BB cream and some of our favorite picks.

What Is BB Cream?

BB cream is a foundation alternative that offers light coverage while being kind to the skin. BB can stand for a few different things, depending on who you ask: blemish balm, beauty balm, blemish base... while they're all correct, beauty balm is probably the most accurate description of what it does. Between smoothing, blurring, protecting, and tinting, it’s truly a beauty powerhouse product.

History of BB Creams

Despite often being credited as a Korean beauty trend, BB creams were actually first developed in Germany by Christine Schrammek, MD. And while we've all hopped on the bandwagon in the last few years, Dr. Schrammek’s original has existed since 1967.

She originally developed it as a stopgap for her patients to use on their skin after harsher treatments like peels and microdermabrasion, which left the skin red and inflamed. Instead of applying heavy foundation, which might have made the skin even more irritated and uncomfortable, Schrammek wanted to offer them something that would blur the imperfections and give a bit of coverage, but most importantly, be kind to the skin. And so BB cream was born.

Years later, the formula was perfected in South Korea, where K-pop and K-drama stars made note of its ability to transform skin easily. After consumers became obsessed with BB creams, the trend made its way to Europe and the United States, where it has become a mainstay beauty and skin product.

What BB Cream Does for the Skin

The BB creams of today have evolved since they were first developed. Schrammek's version of BB cream was originally designed to help with post-treatment sensitivity, but what made BB creams pick up in popularity in recent years was their ability to streamline your routine.

So, what does BB cream do? Instead of using a separate moisturizer and foundation, you can just use a BB cream. "Ideally they would be applied after serums and gels, and before any makeup," says dermatologist Dr. Rachel Nazarian. "Sunscreen is often included, to avoid the confusion of whether to apply over or under this tinted layer." For those BB creams that do not include SPF, you'll still need to wear a separate sunscreen for full protection. Some formulas don't stop there, though. If you have any additional skin concerns—like shine or breakouts—you can easily find a blemish balm formula with bonus ingredients to address those, too.



Byrdie Tip

If your skin needs extra hydration due to past laser treatment, BB cream is a great moisturizing and protective option. "I recommend using a BB cream that contains SPF,  glycerine and niacinamide if you are using it to restore skin treated with lasers," says makeup artist Ashley Gomila.



BB Cream vs. Foundation

Similarly to a foundation, BB creams vary in coverage, color, and finish (matte, natural, or dewy). But unlike a makeup foundation, which focuses solely on color and coverage, a BB cream goes a step further with added skincare benefits, such as hydration and sun protection. "The main benefit of BB cream is that it offers a sheer source of hydration," says Sir John.

On days when you want a little coverage but don't have the time to apply a full face of foundation or just don't want to, a BB cream is a quick and easy way to even out your skin tone without caking on the makeup. It's also the perfect way to enhance your natural beauty while protecting your skin from the sun. "BB cream is a great lightweight option that avoids that more cakey, drying look you sometimes see from full coverage foundation," Sir John explains. Gomila adds that a BB cream avoids the issue of makeup separation, peeling, or pilling, that can sometimes happen when skincare is applied separately before a typical foundation.

BB Cream vs. CC Cream

It is easy to confuse BB cream for CC cream, and while they are both beneficial to the skin, they actually combat different issues. "BB cream is a light coverage foundation with a focus of added skincare benefits, while a CC cream's focus is to color correct," says Gomila. "You can use a CC cream as a primer to correct dark spots and redness and balance your overall skin tone by using this under your normal foundation."

BB Cream Application Tips

Because a BB cream is a combination of skincare and makeup, the application process can be a little confusing. Despite what you might think, beauty balms are fairly easy to apply. Use the warmth of your fingers or a damp beauty sponge to work the product in and melt it into the skin.

"The best way to apply BB cream would be with your hands. A brush isn't necessary as you don't have as much coverage that needs to be blended. When using your hands, the body heat changes the texture and makes it easier to manipulate," explains Sir John.

While makeup artist Kat Dorn likes to apply BB cream with her fingers, she uses a foundation brush when applying the product to other people. Because a BB cream isn't quite as thick as a traditional foundation and has the slip of a moisturizer, it's easy to blend for a seamless finish and looks like skin rather than cakey.

Finding the Right BB Cream

As with any product, sometimes it takes a bit of trial and error to find the perfect BB cream for your skin tone and skin type. "Most BB creams are designed to offer a lightweight coverage that primes and corrects, but these formula differences are indicated so you can find the best product for your skin type," says Sir John.

  • Oily/acne-prone: "If you have acne-prone or oily skin, opt for a matte formula that's oil-free," Sir John says. If you have extra oily skin, Dorn suggest trying a CC cream, as it has "more coverage and more of a matte finish."

  • Dry: Sir John suggests going for a more moisturizing formula with a dewy finish. BB creams are great for those with dry skin, who can look for creams combined with hyaluronic acid or ceramides for added moisture, says Nazarian.

  • Mature: According to Dorn, BB cream is amazing if you have mature skin, as it has skin illuminators and moisturizers included for a youthful appearance without using a heavy amount of product.

When it comes to finding a shade to match your skin tone, Nazarian says there's no need for a perfect match as the tone with a BB cream is incredibly sheer. "It’s really meant to offer super light coverage, and, therefore, often blends into most skin tones and does not need to match exactly," she says. "Some brands do offer a large range of shade options, but because of the classical nature as a light coverage product, many companies still only create a handful of colors."

According to Dorn, the best way to find what suits you best is by applying the product you are testing to your jawline. "I like to use a color that is a touch deeper than a color that is too light. If you are between colors, you can always add a touch of concealer to brighten any areas," she says. "BB creams absorb well into the skin, but always make sure to blend well to ensure your skin has a warm, beautiful glow."

For those with oily skin, look no further than this BB cream from CoverGirl. The oil-free, matte formula won't clog your pores while helping to even your skin tone and hide blemishes. Plus, the price tag doesn't hurt, either! It's also a great pick for the summer season, since the matte formula will help combat shine and sweat due to the hot, humid temperatures.

Another pick from Sir John, this BB cream offers the best of both worlds, making it ideal for those with combination skin. The ultra-thin formula will leave your complexion with a dewy finish while minimizing the appearance of pores.

Kiehl's nailed this BB cream with its dual-action formula that's perfect for combination skin. It offers buildable coverage, all-day hydration, and is lightweight on the skin.

This multi-tasking BB cream is ideal for those with dry skin. The hydrating formula provides sheer-to-medium coverage that will leave you with a naturally radiant complexion.

Dorn's pick is Tarte's BB Blur Tinted Moisturizer for its easy absorption into the skin. "It leaves your skin looking like skin rather than thick and cakey," she says of the pick, which includes vitamin E and Amazonian Clay for extended wear.

Up Next: Foundation vs. BB Cream vs. CC Cream: A Makeup Artist Settles the Debate

Read the original article on Byrdie.