14 Dermatologist-Approved Acne Patches That Will Actually Work

You’ve probably seen them before—in the store aisles, on social media, even in this very magazine. Acne patches are the trendiest way to treat acne and these little stickers are popping up on faces quicker than the pimples they’re meant to treat. But trendiness doesn’t always mean they work. So we asked top dermatologists to fill us in on what these acne patches are, how they work, and which are the best acne patches you should actually use.

What Are Acne Patches?

It turns out the technology used in acne patches isn’t new. “They’re something called hydrocolloid dressings which we’ve used in dermatology and surgery for decades,” says dermatologist Nikhil Dhingra, MD, of Spring Street Dermatology. “Hydrocolloid is a unique material that’s able to absorb extra moisture without drying the skin.” The moisture-sucking ability has made hydrocolloid dressings essential in wound healing by not only absorbing excess moisture that could slow down the healing process, but also protecting the wound from outside infection. Before acne patches came to exist, you probably saw this same technology in those blister pads you stuck on your heels after a long hike.

How Do Acne Patches Work?

Remember learning about osmosis in elementary school science class? It’s the idea that water is drawn to a place that has more particle density. “That’s the principle of these patches,” says dermatologist Morgan Rabach, MD of LM Medical. “The patch is filled with very dense material so it actually pulls water and moisture out of the skin so balance is restored.” In acne terms, this doesn’t just mean water. These patches attack acne by drawing out excess oil, puss, and other wet substances that are caught deep inside the pore and cause the pimple to form. Dr. Rabach is quick to note that because of this moisture-drawing ability, acne patches tend to work better on pimples that have already reached the surface, like whiteheads or zits that have already ruptured, instead of deep cystic zits below the surface. “There has to be some connection to the fluid in the patch otherwise there is no way for the patch to access what’s inside,” she says.

An added benefit of the patches, according to Dr. Dhingra, is that they also act as a bandage to protect the zit from additional infection once it’s actually popped. “It creates a clean and protected environment sort of like a Band-Aid,” he says. By protecting the zit, it can help cut down on the risk of it leaving a scar or dark mark on your face.

When To Use An Acne Patch

The good news is that pretty much anyone can use an acne patch. “Who out there doesn’t get a blemish here and there,” asks dermatologist Elliot Weiss of Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York. “Who doesn’t get stressed and break out?” But not all breakouts are created equal, so how effective an acne patch may be depends on a few factors.

Acne patches tend to work best on pimples that have already come to a (white)head—like the ones you would probably try to pop on your own in the mirror. “If you put one on before the pimple has popped and gotten infected by more bacteria, it will make the skin heal faster,” says Rabach. Think of these as wet pimples, echos Dr. Dhingra, because the fluid inside the zit is already almost ready to come out—the patch just helps that process along.

If you are prone to dry or sensitive skin, acne patches could be a good alternative to traditional spot treatments like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. “Higher strength benzoyl peroxides, for instance, might dry out the pimple, but then the surrounding skin gets flaky and irritated,” says Dr. Rabach, “whereas these patches don’t usually cause any additional inflammation.” While some of the newer patches do contain some of these traditional ingredients, they’re still likely in a lower, “metered” dose than the classic spot treatment, which are tempting to overdo and can lead to more irritation, says Dr. Weiss.

The Band-Aid like protection of acne patches also makes them ideal if you are prone to picking, popping, or taking matters into your own hands. “I tell people to not pick or pop their pimples, but I’m realistic—I know people do it,” says Dr. Dhingra. “Putting on an acne patch right after a pimple has been popped is successful because it absorbs whatever is still draining. It’s not like after you pop a pimple, the wound closes immediately.” Using an acne patch right on top of a freshly-popped pimple will help it heal quicker and with less risk of scarring, as well as lower the possibility of it getting infected.

How To Use An Acne Patch

Using an acne patch has a set-it-and-forget-it quality, but to really get the most out of using one, you should always apply it to a clean face. Wash your face first to remove all excess oil and dirt and if the pimple has just popped, whether by itself or with your help, “clean the area with something antibacterial like hydrogen peroxide before you put the patch on,” says Dr. Dhingra. This will make sure no bacteria gets caught underneath the patch. Always put the patch on before applying other products like face serum or moisturizers.

Don’t keep the patch on for too long, either. “Most acne patches are used overnight,” notes Dr. Dhingra. “If you keep it on for 24 hours, the absorption capabilities are limited.” If you’re using a patch on a particularly angry zit, he recommends switching the patch every 12 hours and washing your face and cleaning the area each time before putting on the new one. If you leave a patch on for two long and it “maxes out” in it’s fluid-absorbing function, it can actually promote more bacteria growth.

How To Choose An Acne Patch

The most important thing to consider when deciding which acne patch to use is to look at the ingredients. Some of these patches contain ingredients like salicylic acid, tea tree oil, and even vitamin A (retinol), so if your skin is sensitive or prone to irritation, you may want to stick to a straight-up hydrocolloid patch. Then start with this dermatologist-recommended list.

Check out the 14 best acne patches for men to get rid of any pimple problem, according to experts.