Rhude RTW Spring 2024
The last few months have been tough on Rhuigi Villaseñor.
In May, the Rhude founder parted ways with Swiss luxury house Bally after just over a year, and last week he was sued by a minority stakeholder in Rhude, who alleged that Villaseñor stole profits from the streetwear brand to support his “lavish lifestyle.” A spokesman responded that the claims were unfounded and that Villaseñor plans to “vigorously” defend himself in court.
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The Filipino American designer was forced to sit out the last menswear season in Paris because of production issues, but returned with a determination to set his brand back on track, now that he will no longer be splitting his time between two jobs. His spring collection was all about his pursuit of the American Dream.
“I really spent time to think about what I started all this for, what the journey was, you know, [starting] from coming as an illegal immigrant to America, having zero money,” he said. “My mood board and my imagination is endless, because when you have nothing, all you can think about is everything. I want everything.”
One of his dreams was to own a boat: cue an exploration of nautical style with an ‘80s preppy twist. Models ambled through a garden adjoining Parc Monceau in Paris with sweaters tied around their shoulders, in looks that riffed on the classic red, white and blue palette that has become synonymous with Tommy Hilfiger.
But if there’s anyone Villaseñor wants to emulate, it’s Ralph Lauren and his old money aesthetic — tweaked for a generation fluent in streetwear codes. A bottle green tailored jacket with gold buttons was paired with a paisley printed silk shirt, suede pants and tasseled loafers, for a slightly off-kilter take on status dressing.
“I think it’s important for kids to have a reference point,” he explained. “As you grow a business, sometimes you leave behind the audience, so I think it’s important that I need to be embedded within the brand and show them that this is really another approach to luxury.”
While his windbreakers, sailor-striped sweaters and stonewashed jeans felt a little generic, Villaseñor made a convincing play for the female customer with items including a scarf-printed dress knotted in front, and a monochrome jumpsuit with a billowing cape back — perfect for posing on the deck of a yacht.
He hopes to expand womenswear as well as categories including denim, swimwear and eyewear. Asked how he deals with negativity and people who accuse him of being too extravagant, Villaseñor said: “You know, the brand is lifestyle, and I think, at the end of the day, the only thing that matters is the truth.”
Launch Gallery: Rhude RTW Spring 2024
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