Review: Behind red velvet ropes, new Naples Design District restaurant serves luxe comfort food
The red velvet rope implied exclusivity at Studio 54 back in the day. At fancy-schmancy events, it separates red carpet notables from mere onlookers and paparazzi. At the movies, the rope drops when it’s time to find your seat.
Two red velvet ropes are usually stanchions for crowd control, suggesting a queue for entry.
They seem a tad pretentious and a little silly at a new Naples restaurant.
Why?
After three visits to Warren American Whiskey Kitchen spanning December through last week, I never saw anyone lined up or near the velvet ropes that guide guests to the main entryway.
It's a misleading first impression because once inside the door, you’re likely to be treated very well at every touchpoint.
Back in December
A hunky fire blower, slithering showgirls and sequin-clad stilt walkers meant to entertain were part of my first visit several weeks after Warren officially opened in early December. It reminded me of Vegas meets Miami, but the effect was more Reno nightclub.
The food? Quite good and beautifully presented.
The noise level? Off the charts, so much so that the server misheard our order of short ribs, bringing ribeye instead. That was something I’d never order for two reasons: First, I find slabs of beef boring, and second, I feared the wrath of my editor seeing its $86 price tag when turning in my receipt.
We also didn't get our second round of cocktails in a timely manner because the bar area was so jammed that our server said he had a hard time maneuvering around the crowd. By the time they were delivered to the table, we were ready to pay and leave.
What's different now?
The showbiz shenanigans and the opening chef are gone.
As reported in February, Warren hired Philipe Schroeder to lead the kitchen.
When dining there last week with retired JLB Annabelle Tometich following a book chat about her fabulous, must-read memoir The Mango Tree, she said Schroeder is the go-to kitchen “fixer,” citing a few Lee County restaurants he's turned around in the last six years, including Rosy Tomorrows, Society at Bell Tower, and Sanibel’s The Jac, all now closed.
A luxe spin on comfort food
It's more like what didn't I eat? over repeat visits because of the chef change. The food is still good, plating presentations are innovative and fun.
Damn Good Hospitality is the group behind this restaurant and several menu items refer to the company's name, including the burger and lobster mac and cheese, which made my list of seven favorites for 2023.
Both live up to the damn good moniker.
And after eating 20something burgers for work since January, Warren’s version is currently topping my list of those at fine-dining restaurants.
The chopped lobster pieces are plentiful in the mac and cheese which gets a flourish with the crustacean’s head. While not for the squeamish, a tablemate scooped every bit out of the shell.
The short ribs? Served with bone marrow, a tinier fork was needed to pry every bit out.
But my new favorite dish is beef tips soaked in a sumptuous sauce and served with mashed potatoes and crispy onion strings. While listed under shareables, it makes a terrific entrée for one.
Another signature shareable, Gloria’s KFC, stands for Korean fried chicken. There’s enough heat to make your head sweat in a good way. Pow!
If you’re a Chilean sea bass fan, Warren's version will make you happy but it's not necessarily the star of the show.
What remains the same
Alas, it's the noise level. Friday and Saturday nights can be excruciating for anyone sensitive to volume. Midweek’s decibel level is less so, but even with my love of 90s music across all genres, I strained talking over a Biggie/Tupac soundtrack that randomly switched to country music just before 9 p.m.
Last Saturday night’s option of sitting outside as a walk-in was much quieter, but the patio lacks a view and inside's dynamic energy where every barstool and table was packed with people glammed up for a fun night out.
What to know
Address: 111 Tenth St. S., Naples
Call: 239-330-2611
Website: warrennaples.com, listing daily summer deals, including 25% off Sunday through Thursday.
Summer hours: Monday through Thursday, 3 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight. Sunday brunch is at 11 a.m., and dinner runs until 9 p.m.
Prices: Shareable appetizers range from $14 for cauliflower to $28 for those terrific Carrara Wagyu tips. Handhelds from $21 for a veggie burger to a market-priced lobster roll, currently $65. House specialties range from $33 for farro risotto to $135 for an “exclusive to Warren NY Strip Jasper—Phoenix MS 9+" served with creamed spinach and heirloom carrots.
Booze: Arguably the town’s best spirits list, you’ll pay accordingly. Signature cocktails with premium spirits are priced $16 to $35. The pours seemed more substantial last week since my December visit. Wines by the glass from $15 to $31, higher for bubbles. Bottles range from $39 for Moscato to $4400 for Latour, with numerous mid-priced selections available.
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Etc: Reservations are a must on weekends unless you like waiting. Valet is optional on summer weeknights because nearby parking is ample. The private party mezzanine for up to 26 is very pretty and overlooks the main restaurant. The gorgeous and cozy whiskey library is members-only but ask (nicely) for a peek.
This article came from staff writer Diana Biederman. Connect via dbiederman@gannett.com. Our restaurant critics have written under the Jean Le Boeuf brand for more than 40 years. JLB dines anonymously (she tries to) and always pays for her meals.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: New Naples Design District restaurant serves luxe comfort food: Review
