For His Return to the Runway, Christopher John Rogers Shows Us What He Can Do

Collection 10 — the CFDA Award-winning designer's third proper fashion show — pushes brand codes even further, with propositions for every occasion.

The excitement was palpable.

In the lead-up to the Christopher John Rogers Collection 10 unveiling at the Brooklyn Navy Yard (where Alexander McQueen staged its Fall 2022 show just a few months ago) on Tuesday night, those confirmed to attend and fans of the brand alike were reveling in the anticipation, posting their outfits and reacting to a warning issued by the PR team about "the industrial nature of the venue and flooring" in regards to guests' footwear choices. Once the doors of the Agger Fish Building slid open, a crowd dressed in their Christopher John Rogers best — either pieces from past releases or bright colors inspired by the designer's palette — filed into the industrial space, chatting excitedly among the three rows of benches.

Compared to the last show, which was held at Spring Studios in February 2020 and widely regarded as one of the most memorable New York runways in recent history, it seemed like a much tighter audience at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. At first, it struck as surprising, given how the brand has grown since: It has won two CFDA Awards, dressed the Vice President, collaborated with Target, been named an LVMH Prize finalist, switched over to a pre-collection schedule (all amid a global pandemic). But it felt very intentional, like everything Christopher John Rogers does. There were editors, buyers, journalists and the other industry folk you expect to see at a fashion show, as well as fellow designers, creatives, collaborators and friends. And all seemed extremely psyched to be there.

There are a few things we've come to expect from a Christopher John Rogers collection: bright, expressive use of color, either on its own or in rainbow stripes or checks; dramatic volume and inventive, shapely silhouettes; reinventions of classic tailoring; gorgeous, gorgeous gowns. Looking at Collection 10, the brand knows this, but wants to challenge itself and further show what it can do. It knows its rainbow sweaters do well season after season, so it iterates and refreshes them in new ways, shapes and patterns. It knows that customers love suiting, so it pushes what that can look like even further, adding corset-like cinching at the waist. It knows that evening is a strength, so it emphasizes the possibilities that lie in its daywear — layered shirting, knitwear, cargo pants, coats.

Christopher John Rogers takes these steps forward, and it brings the codes it has already established with it in small but impactful ways. You'll spot them in the rainbow buttons on a black shirtdress or in the black and white triangle graphic that hearkens back to its earliest collections, really speaking to the heart of the brand and the narrative the team has been weaving for 10 collections now. It may only be getting bigger, but it's still magic at its core.

See Christopher John Rogers Collection 10 in the gallery below.

View the 56 images of this gallery on the original article

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