How to Use Retinol to Treat Acne, According to Dermatologists
From blackheads in your ear to bacne and even pimples on your butt, acne can pop up on any area of skin when excess sweat, makeup, debris, and other particles like dead skin cells clog your pores. Creating a skincare routine with gunk-clearing ingredients and gentle exfoliants is the first step toward getting rid of existing breakouts and preventing new ones from forming. Retinol is one of those helpful ingredients that can be used to treat acne.
Derived from vitamin A, retinol "is a naturally occurring molecule and circulates in the body to work on all of our skin," board-certified dermatologist Dan Belkin tells Seventeen. The skincare staple is found in many different forms and removes the buildup that leads to acne. Retinol goes a step further than just exfoliating. It works underneath the skin to help stimulate collagen and elastin production to keep skin plump and reduce the appearance of pores and acne scarring, which is clutch when you're trying to get rid of leftover dark marks. If you're looking to add a new product to your acne-clearing skincare routine, read ahead for the 411 on retinol.
Can retinol treat acne?
It most certainly can. While you may have seen commercials about how transformative retinol is for combatting signs of skin aging, it actually prevents all kinds of acne as well. According to the New York Dermatology Group derm, "Retinol and derivatives of retinol are among the most effective treatments for acne." Blackheads, whiteheads, zits, if you can name it, then there's a retinoid that can treat it.
While retinoids all contain vitamin A, there are some things that separate each. "Retinol varieties mainly differ in how they fit into the formulation and in their strength," Dr. Belkin explains. "Typically, these things affect both the efficacy and irritancy."
Understanding the difference between retinol can be quite difficult. "Retinals (retinaldehyde) are stronger than retinol and serve as the first step in the conversion process to retinoic acid," Dr. Kseniya Kobets tells Seventeen. "Retinoic acid is the most stable and effect active form of retinoids, but it requires a prescription," she adds.
Which retinol works best for acne?
Deciding which retinol works for you is a very personal process based largely on your skin concerns and goals. When it comes to clearing cystic acne, prescription-grade retinol creams and gels are your best bet. However, there are over-the-counter retinoids that deliver prescription-strength assistance for other skin conditions and concerns.
The OG of all retinoids is tretinoin. According to Dr. Kobets, Director of Cosmetic Dermatology, Montefiore, the prescription-only retinoid is known as the prescription Retin-A. Tretinoin "is the active form that binds to retinoic acid receptors (RARs) to execute their various functions in the skin," making it significantly stronger than over-the-counter options.
Adapalene 0.1% or 0.3%, on the other hand, is a "less irritating and less photosensitive" retinoic acid (like tretinoin), and the New York-based derm says it can be used for acne. You can snag this retinoid at your local drugstore or fave online pharmacy. When you have sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea, she suggests gradually introducing a less potent retinol or adapalene to minimize skin irritation by including ceramide-enriched products for a few weeks to "allow time for the skin barrier to recover." Then, Dr. Kobets recommends applying a pea-sized amount of the retinol on top of a ceramide cream at bedtime once a week for a few weeks and gradually increasing to up to three nights per week over three months.
You may hear people talk about the percentage of active retinol in products, but those numbers don't necessarily determine their strength. The potency and effectiveness of retinol vary according to type and formulation. "For instance, 0.5% retinol may be stranger than 1% retinol, but both are less potent than 0.025% tretinoin."
If you've tried retinol and it's too much for your skin, clinical dermatologist Dr. Carl Thronfeldt suggests alternatives, like Epionce's Lytic Tx, to reduce irritation from blemishes and improve the skin's texture. Dr. Belkin recommends compounds, like bakuchiol, that have "retinol-like effects and are easier to tolerate" if your skin has a negative reaction to retinol.
Tazarotene is a prescription-only topical retinoid, and it's considered "very strong," so she recommends it for oily skin. Dr. Kobets suggests a "formulation of Arazlo (tazarotene 0.045%) in an emollient form" because it's "much better tolerated and used successfully," specifically for patients of color. If you have oily skin and experience comedonal acne (like whiteheads and blackheads), Dr. Kobets recommends using a retinoid daily and possibly pairing it with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid products to reduce oiliness and pore size.
All in all, "the best retinoid is the one that you can tolerate," she says. When you're ready to get started on your retinol journey, Dr. Belkin recommends starting out by using a "gentle over-the-counter option" at night. If you're familiar with retinol and have tested out your skin's sensitivity, he suggests going for something stronger.
How long does it take to see results from using retinol?
When you're trying to clear up your acne, you may want results overnight, but retinol takes a bit of time. Dr. Kobets suggests beginning by applying a pea-sized amount of a retinoid once a week and increase to three nights a week as tolerated over several weeks to ensure your skin can handle the potency. Once you've got a consistent routine down and have found a retinoid that works for your skin, Dr. Kobets says that you can expect to see subtle signs of changes within one to two weeks of consistent use. "Skin takes at least 28 days or longer to turnover," so she says it can take anywhere from one to three months to "start getting used to and reaping the benefits of retinoids."
Should you stop using retinol if acne improves?
As soon as you notice an improvement in your acne, you may feel inclined to skip out on retinol, but Dr. Kobets advises against it. "One common mistake made by patients is to only use topical retinoids during acne flare-ups," she says. Applying a retinoid at least once a week helps reduce oil production and pore plugging, but Dr. Kobets says it may take months for the buildup to accumulate enough to cause acne flare-ups. Plus, "retinoids work behind the scenes to reduce acne breakouts, speed up healing, and treat post-acne flare consequences such as scarring or pigmentation." She also warns against discontinuing topical retinoids because "it takes weeks to months for the skin to get used to them, and stopping or restarting them can cause irritation."
What are the side effects of using retinol?
Retinol is laced with strong acne-fighting properties, but it can have noticeable side effects. "They [retinol/retinoids] can initially cause irritation, skin peeling, redness, and other skin sensitivities," Dr. Belkin warns. Since the skin is in such a sensitive state when using retinol, wearing your fave UV ray-blocking SPF is a must.
Your skin's complexion also plays a role in how retinol performs. Patients of color can experience post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation if they are not protected from the sun or visible light once they begin a retinol regimen. To combat the side effects of retinol, Dr. Kobets suggests the "sandwich" method," where you start out by using "gentle cleansers with ceramides, apply a moisturizer first and then finish with a topical moisturizer." If you don't notice any improvements in your skin or begin to experience severe reactions to retinol, both derms suggest seeking a board-certified dermatologist.
Clearing up acne can be a bit of a headache. You have to fight active breakouts, prevent future ones, and clean up leftover hyperpigmentation. Retinol is a helpful skincare essential that can do all three things at once. Before you run to your nearest drugstore or add retinol to your shopping cart online, it's important to find the right form to suit your skin's condition and texture to prevent skin sensitivities and other side effects.
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