Retinoid vs. Retinol: When to Use Each and Why
If you’ve ever used retinoid vs. retinol interchangeably, you wouldn’t be alone—and also, you wouldn’t exactly be wrong. The two have led to more head-scratching than Kylie Jenner’s actual net worth, and that’s understandable. Because while retinoid and retinol are technically two separate things, they can, in some cases, be the same thing. (See?) Let us explain.
“Retinoid is a generic term for any topical product that contains a vitamin A derivative,” says Shari Marchbein, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. So it serves as a catchall term for any vitamin A derivative—be it retinoic acid, retinol, retinol palmitate, or retinol propionate (a.k.a. pro-retinol). To answer the question of what is retinol, then: It’s just one of many types of retinoids out there.
Retinol and other retinoids work toward the same goal. “They have years of scientific evidence backing their improvement of wrinkles, pigmentation, and of course, acne,” says Charlotte Birnbaum, M.D., of Spring Street Dermatology in New York City. However, they’re not created equal, especially in terms of strength. The term retinoid is typically used to describe prescription-strength retinoid products, such as tretinoin and tazarotene, which have retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is the most active form of vitamin A and thus the most potent form out there, which is why you typically need a prescription to get it.
Retinol, however, is gentler and thus available without a prescription. “Retinol requires conversion to retinoic acid before being able to have an effect, making these less potent,” says Birnbaum. “The weaker the retinoid, the easier tolerated.” That’s why the best retinol creams and serums are great for antiaging and breakouts, but aren’t always a solve for chronic acne.
But the comparisons don’t end there. Other factors, like your skin type and your specific skin goals, can determine whether you’re better off with a retinol or a prescription-level retinoid (or neither). Here’s what you should know.
Retinoid vs. Retinol: What They Have in Common
Overall Benefits
Retinoids and retinol deliver the same benefits, even though the rate at which you’ll see improvements might differ. “Retinoids are powerhouse multitaskers that work by increasing collagen production as well as increasing the rate of skin-cell turnover,” says Marchbein. “They are highly effective at improving the texture of your skin and giving it a glow, minimizing fine lines and wrinkles, evening out skin tone, and even decreasing pore size.” It might take a little longer for you to see those results from retinol, but whichever you choose, you reap the same perks.
Side Effects
If you jump right into using a retinoid product every single night, you might experience redness, peeling, and overall irritation as your skin gets used to the ramped-up cell turnover. That’s where the acclimation period, which involves spacing out applications when you first start using a retinoid, comes in handy.
It’s a good strategy for both heavy-duty retinoids and lower-strength retinol. Also, “the dryness and peeling when first using retinoids can make you more sensitive to the sun, so it’s best to use them at night, when your skin can repair itself,” says Marchbein. Another way to offset the irritating effects of retinol? A trick called buffering, which involves diluting retinoid with moisturizer.
Not Safe During Pregnancy
Retinol, retinoids, whatever—none of it is safe to use when you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, which can be especially challenging if you experience acne during pregnancy. Instead, Marchbein recommends bakuchiol, which is a botanical extract with promising studies to back up its title as a natural, less-irritating retinol alternative. “Bakuchiol, which has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, has been shown not only to stimulate collagen production, but it's also more gentle on your skin,” she says, which makes it better for dry, sensitive skin types too.
Retinoid vs. Retinol: How They Differ
Overall Strength
Not sure whether you should go with retinol or a different retinoid? It mostly depends on your skin type and what it can handle. “If you have sensitive or dry skin, I recommend starting with an over-the-counter retinol or retinal,” says Birnbaum. “The more potent, the more potential for redness, irritation, and dryness.” (Curious? This vegan retinol won a Glamour Beauty Award for how gentle it is.)
On the other hand, “if you have oilier skin or are acne-prone, you should be able to start with a prescription right away,” says Marchbein. You can snag one from your dermatologist or try an over-the-counter prescription-strength retinoid such as Differin Acne Treatment Gel or La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Retinoid Acne Treatment, both of which contain adapalene (a non-retinol retinoid). “These two include the strongest retinoid you can obtain over-the-counter,” Birnbaum says.
Length of Time to See Results
Because retinol has to go through two conversions to become retinoic acid, it takes longer to improve your skin. “It really takes about 12 weeks to see significant results,” says Marchbein. For retinoids, however, you may be able to see changes (and an end to purging, if you experience it) within four to six weeks.
What Are the Best Retinols and Retinoids?
If you’re trying to snuff out breakouts, we’ve got an extensive guide about how to use retinol for acne and what to expect (looking at you, retinol burn). We also put together a list of the best retinol creams and serums you can get without a prescription, all tested and vetted by our editors with thorough reviews. But if you want a couple quick suggestions, check out some of our all-time favorites, below.
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream
$74.00, Drunk Elephant
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Retinoid Acne Treatment
$30.00, La Roche-Posay
Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1%
$14.00, Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1%
Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Facial Serum
$39.00, Olay
Deanna Pai is a beauty writer in New York City. Follow her on Instagram @deannapai.
Originally Appeared on Glamour
