A Reminder That Simone Rocha Is the GOAT of Her Own Aesthetic

There's more there than bows, lace, doll dresses and balletic accessories (which are, of course, lovely in their own right).

Simone Rocha has long captivated fashion with her unabashedly feminine, delicate-yet-unforgettable designs, filled with voluminous dresses and pearly accoutrements. She's become one of London Fashion Week's most highly anticipated shows and, naturally, one of the industry's most influential minds — so, it's no surprise that aspects of the aesthetic that helped her stand out have proliferated into the mainstream. With Gen-Z's catch-all terminology (balletcore, coquettecore, etc.) reducing these details to their most superficial level, Rocha's Fall 2023 collection seems to serve as a reminder that, when it comes to these aesthetics, she remains the GOAT, thanks to her enthralling ability to elevate and bring depth to these motifs.

This season, Rocha was inspired by the historic Irish tradition of Lughnasadh, a Gaelic harvest festival associated with religious rituals and Neopaganism. "Peeling the apple in the mirror to reveal your future love. The blood daubed on children's foreheads for protection from otherworldly beings and bad luck. A twisted lullaby," read the designer's cryptic show notes.

These themes bring a touch of darkness and superstition to the collection's more childlike looks, like intricate white lace pieces and bow-adorned dresses reminiscent of a girl's nightgown. Ribbons, mostly red, tied into bows could be found in all manner of places: hair, ears, fingers, even under models' eyes. There are also allusions to straw or corn husks, in a gown seemingly fashioned entirely out of the raw material, an oversized clutch resembling a massive pile of twine and the light-reflective golden hue of several luxe metallic pieces.

Fall 2023 is also rife with black: gowns, jackets, suits, ball skirts — all in luxe, textural fabric or accentuated with charming embroideries that bring life and drama to the somber hue.

On the accessories front, Rocha's love of pearls and ballet carries over into autumn, via bags, jewelry and footwear that look anything but stale. Fall 2023 beautifully illustrates Rocha's ability to bring depth to frivolity, see beyond trends and delight loyal fans, all while delivering wearable products and ideas that will surely lend themselves to commercial success (and, inevitably, inspire a few of her contemporaries).

See the full Simone Rocha Fall 2023 collection below.

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