Provisional Paris Couture Schedule Includes Maison Margiela, Students Hosted by Stéphane Rolland

PARIS — Capping off a busy January will be the spring 2024 couture season, whose provisional calendar was also released Monday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

There will be 30 shows on the four-day schedule slated to run between Jan. 22 and 25, with Schiaparelli opening proceedings on the Monday at 10 a.m. And Maison Margiela’s Artisanal line that will close the week at 7 p.m. on Jan. 25, after a two-season absence.

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In between, cornerstones continue to be Christian Dior at 2:30 p.m. on Jan. 22, Chanel and its double billing on Jan. 23 morning and Giorgio Armani Privé closing off that Tuesday. Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino will show the following day. As is tradition, high jewelry presentations will also be dotted throughout the week.

On Stéphane Rolland’s spring runway, the first looks that will come out won’t be the ones of the French couturier but those of students from the ESMOD and Institut Français de la Mode fashion schools.

Some 20 students who took part in a masterclass by Rolland during the first trimester of the school year will be presenting their work on the runway.

“It is above all an incredible human adventure that started as a question of transmission but transformed into a moment of sharing,” the couturier told WWD. “By promoting this new generation of designers, we thought we were giving them something but ultimately, their commitment meant that it was they who gave us a gift.”

Meanwhile, a trio of independent labels are moving to the opening day, with Imane Ayissi, Juana Martin and Maison Sara Chraibi taking up the 11:30 a.m., 5 p.m. and 6 p.m. slots, respectively.

As for Robert Wun, after skipping the fall session in July, the 2022 ANDAM Special Prize winner will be back in Paris with a 4 p.m. show on Jan. 25, the final day.

That day will also see the debut of Paris-based Dutch designer Peet Dullaert, who founded his eponymous label in 2012 with the intention of exploring a contemporary silhouette through entirely handsewn designs.

A conspicuous absence on the calendar is Iris van Herpen, whose retrospective exhibit at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs runs through April 28. The Dutch couturier is expected to hold an event on Jan. 22 at the museum, but will not be presenting a new collection at this time.

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