Fashion is a journey and, in these challenging times, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have hit the GPS reset numerous times. They’ve done (and pretty much perfected) artisanal craftwork; they’ve gone high-tech and, in their first season back in New York after showing in Paris, they showed Made in L.A. jeans and shirts.
They’ve proven themselves quite good at all of it; they are talented designers. Now they seem to have picked their lane — fashion essentials with flourish for a customer they view as their contemporary. Well-established in her career and perhaps busy with a young family, her sartorial needs are different from when she and the Proenza guys first discovered each other; she may be less experimental now than she once was.
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The collection McCollough and Hernandez showed on Tuesday evening envisioned her as polished and confident, her wardrobe anchored by a new kind of power suit — oversize, sloped-shoulder jacket over pants. The suits projected an Eighties vibe, securing a place as one of New York’s biggest trends. Yet these suits were hardly period pieces; the look projected all of the confidence of the power women of yore, yet with the ease of a relaxed silhouette and a sensible shoe.
Counterpoint came in lovely dresses cut from ample expanses of fluid fabrics belted into gentle folds. Overall, the clothes looked chic, if not particularly inventive. But McCollough and Hernandez included a pair of goddess dresses which, in their intricate, artfully off-kilter draping, indicated that the designers still enjoy flexing their experimental muscle.
Launch Gallery: Proenza Schouler RTW Spring 2020