Pro Tip: Pair Your Next Trip to Dublin With a Countryside Escape in Kerry

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It’s Time to Plan a Luxurious Irish GetawayMarco Bottigell/ Getty


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I'll admit it: Dublin is the most basic destination when you're traveling to Ireland. But I'm here to tell you that despite being somewhat touristy, it's also an absolute must—especially if it's your first time in the country. Here's the real trick though, which I've officially learned from experience: If you really want an all-around vacation, you've gotta explore Dublin and then pop over to southwest Ireland for some pretty epic countryside views. My rec? Kerry, a county nestled in the mountains and along the coastline that's truly breathtaking.

I had the chance to hit both areas during a springtime trip last year, starting in Dublin and making my way to Kerry through the scenic Iveragh Peninsula via a three-and-a-half-hour road trip. (Don't want to rent a car? No worries—you can also hop on a one-hour plane, or catch a train from Dublin’s Heuston Station.) Whilst in Dublin, I intended to test how many of the local pubs I could hit without reverting into my former college-girl self, whereas in Kerry, I indulged in as much relaxation as my body and mind could take. Best of both worlds, eh?

And because (in my humble opinion) I believe that I experienced the finest Ireland has to offer, I put together this travel guide for you. Scroll down (then follow it!) for a luxe experience that will give you a truly well-rounded trip to the Emerald Isle.

(P.S. The writer received free transportation, stays, meals, and experiences in order to write this story.)


Dublin

Stay

The Merrion: If you're going to visit the capital of Ireland, you should absolutely stay in the middle of it all. The Merrion Hotel is located right in the city center—directly across from the Irish Parliament and surrounded by 18th-century-style gardens. And trust me when I say this five-star stunner might just offer the most elegant and impeccably designed bedrooms (think: antiquey toile and period furniture) I have ever stayed in.

Book yourself a Merrion room right here right now:

BOOK THE MERRION DUBLIN

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Go on a pint tour: Hands down, this was my absolute favorite experience in Dublin. The Perfect Pint Tour is $100 per person, three hours long, led by a local guide who knows their sh*t, and hits four of the best pubs (which I won't name because you'll have to book to find out) with, well, the perfect pints. FYI, to keep up with the Irish and properly drink a Guinness, you must do so in four giant gulps. As a non-beer gal, I must admit that it's surprisingly tastier/lighter than I imagined, and the four-sip rule can be followed.

Grafton Street: S/o to all the retail junkies out there, because if you really want to indulge, you have to hit up Grafton Street, one of the most famous shopping areas in Dublin. You'll find a range of stores, street performers, and a super festive crowd and atmosphere. Grafton Street is also home to St. Steven's Green, which brings us to...

St. Steven's Green: Looking for a little R&R inside a bustlin' city like Dublin? Make your way over to St. Steven's Green. It's smack dab in the city center but feels like you're completely out of it thanks to the super lush greenery, scenic ponds, and glorious gardens. It's the best place to have leisurely walks, picnics, or just chill out for a bit.

Visit museums: The MoLI Museum and the EPIC Museum make learning about history actually fun (just me?). MoLI, aka Museum of Literature Ireland, is the place to go to for centuries of Irish storytelling, featuring loads of immersive exhibits. EPIC, The Irish Emigration Museum, tells the story of Irish emigrants and their success stories.

Walk the Howth Cliffs: Chances are you've probably heard of the Cliffs of Moher, but they're over three hours away from Dublin. The Howth Cliffs, on the other hand, are only thirty minutes away from the center of Dublin and are absolutely s-t-u-n-n-i-n-g (see below for proof).

Check out Windmill Lane: Music lovers, you need to check out Windmill Lane—a famous recording studio that has seen the likes of the Rolling Stones, David Bowie, Ed Sheeran, U2, Van Morrison, and so many more. FWIW, Bruce Springsteen popped by for a quick sesh the day after I visited.

Tour Trinity College: Trinity College's iconic campus is only a 15-minute walk from the Merrion. Founded in 1592, some of the greatest authors have attended Trinity (hi, Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett!). Plus, you've gotta check out the Book of Kells, a colorful manuscript created by Irish monks around 800 AD.

Eat & Drink

Sophie's Rooftop: This place came highly recommended by a friend of mine who has lived in Dublin for the past year. The glass-roofed restaurant is the best place to grab (what I like to call) an ~elevated casual~ bite to eat. Dine here for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or brunch on the weekends, and get the "Rated-R" cocktail if you like lychee.

Temple Bar: This was confusing (trust me, I was lost), but there is one main bar called, ahem, Temple Bar, and then the street it is located on is also referred to as Temple Bar. Basically, it's a fun area with cobblestone roads filled with music, pubs galore, and a lively crowd. Definitely the place to go if you're looking for a bar-hoppin' night out.

The Cellar Bar: Inside the Merrion Hotel is an 18th-century wine vault, and inside that vault is the moody, oak-lined Cellar Bar. The drink service is great, as is the food. I recommend coming here for an after-work drink, or on Wednesday and Thursday nights, when you can catch some live music.

Café en Seine: If you have a big occasion to celebrate, or just want more of an upscale dining experience, check out Café en Seine. It's a giant venue made up of bars, restaurants, and an indoor Parisian street garden, and you should try as many of them as possible. Oh, and don't forget to try the pornstar martini.

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Kerry

Stay

Sheen Falls Lodge: This five-star hotel, located right on Kenmare Bay, is the most picturesque retreat, perfect for when you need to truly relax. The 300-acre estate is filled with a million incredible outdoor activities (think: golf, fishing, horse riding, and archery), and you can enjoy your excursions with a backdrop of mountains and the sea. My room (ahem, suite, I was spoiled!) had a direct view of Sheen Falls, and I fell asleep to the sound of the rushing river each night. It was nothing short of magical, seriously.


Book yourself a Sheen Falls room right here right now:

BOOK SHEEN FALLS LODGE

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Ring of Kerry: If you build out a little time in your trip when driving from Dublin to Kerry— which involves going through the scenic Iveragh Peninsula—you should absolutely travel the Ring of Kerry route. It takes around three-and-a-half hours to drive the circular path around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, and it puts the beauty of Ireland's southwest coast on full display. You'll see incredible landscapes, the Atlantic Ocean coastline, castle ruins, and charming towns. It's also got some great hiking spots, in case you're open to taking a parking break for a little outdoorsy moment.

Try your hand at falconry: Falconry—a traditional sport where birds are trained to catch prey and return to their handler's glove—is not an opportunity you get every day, and at Sheen Falls Lodge, they make the experience unforgettable. You'll learn how to handle falcons, and if you're lucky, owls too. It's truly amazing to interact with the birds in such close proximity!

Play a round of golf: If you've got a golfer in your life, they'll be pleased to learn that the southwest of Ireland has some of the most stunning courses. Sheen Falls Lodge's sister property, the Ring of Kerry Golf Club, is located just five miles from the hotel, nestled between the MacGillycuddy Reeks and Cahamountain mountain ranges. Book a tee time here.

Visit Garinish Island: About a thirty-minute drive from Sheen Falls Lodge, you'll find Garinish Island, which can be accessed only by ferry. The island is filled with gorgeous plants that change with the seasons, and beautiful gardens. On our way back to the hotel after visiting Garinish, we stopped at a local place called Helens Bar and Bed & Breakfast for authentic and fresh seafood—try the fish and chips, trust.

Enjoy some spa treatments: I have covered a lot of beauty in my lifetime, which means that I've been treated to a lot of massages (I know, I know, a perk of the job), but I can confidently say that one of my most relaxing treatments of all time took place at Easanna Spa, located inside Sheen Falls Lodge. The spa works with two popular beauty brands, Elemis and Voya, and you get to choose whichever one you please for facials and massages. FYI, I did the Voya Total Massage Journey and I was left completely zen. Check out the other options here.

Eat & Drink

The Stables Brasserie & Bar: Located in Sheen Falls Lodge, The Stables is the more casual of the dining options offered at the hotel. It's the perfect place to watch a game on the big screen (the Irish love Gaelic football!), grab a bite throughout the day, or drink a few cocktails on a little date night. My suggestion? Try a gin and tonic with Sheen Fall's signature gin—it's a treat.

The Falls: This fine dining restaurant inside Sheen Falls Lodge is where I enjoyed breakfast every morning, and had my favorite meal of the trip. It's where you'll go if you want to dress up a bit, listen to piano music, and enjoy chef-curated dishes that feature a touch of French flair.

Maison Gourmet: For your morning coffee and pastry, or even your afternoon lunch, take a stroll into downtown Kenmare and stop by Maison Gourmet, a French bakery and coffee shop. Filled with homemade breads, desserts, and pastries, you'll find a sweet treat for everyone on your trip.

Tom Crean Brewery: Opened in 2019 by a husband and wife duo, this brewery is known for vegan beers that don't contain any chemicals or preservatives. In fact, they're made using just four ingredients (water, malted grains, hops, and yeast). Pop by for a guided tour of the brewery or grab a seat at the bar for a drink.

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