Are Pro Surfers Scared of Massive Pipeline? Short Answer: Yes. (Video)
Pipeline is not the biggest wave in the world, but it’s by far one of the scariest.
The wave, more specifically the shallow, cavernous, sharp and unforgiving reef, has claimed more scalps than any other surf spot. It has many moods – all of which are deadly – from fun-sized head high, to maxing out third reef wash-through bombs. It is beauty, it is fear, it is best-wave-of-your-life potential, it is death and destruction.
Which is all what makes the wave such a spectacle, such a test of any surfer’s skill and willingness to send it. But still, more than anything, it’s scary as hell.
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Recently, the Lexus Pipe Pro was controversially called off during the biggest day of the window. Sure, it wasn’t super clean or contestable. But still, many speculated that the World Surf League deemed it was too big for competitors. That doesn’t happen often – almost never – and certainly not at other Tour stops like, for example, Lower Trestles.
So, how scared are pro surfers out at Pipeline when it’s massive? Well, two surfers who are seemingly fearless out at Pipeline, Koa Smith and Griffin Colapinto, recently talked about how daunting the wave can be when it’s huge. Koa asked Griff:
“When you’re out there, and you paddle over a wave, and you see the bomb, what is your internal dialogue? Is it fear? I’m talking the wave of your life.”
To which, Griff responded:
“I feel a surge of excitement/nerves. It’s a chance to get a crazy wave, but also a chance to…die.
“Most of the time there’s not many thoughts. It’s like a life or death situation. Thoughts go to the side a little bit, and you’re just reacting. It’s instinct.
“I try and slow myself down. Almost like relax into it.”
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Sounds a bit like flow state, the mental phenomena in which the mind is completely focused on one task and nothing else, often experienced by athletes, artists, etc. when they’re “in the zone.” And it’s not the first time surfing has been described as such.
Because at Pipeline, especially, you better be focused. Or you’re gonna get drilled.
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