Premium Denim Brands Back in the Spotlight at Coterie
The premium denim category flexed its strength and staying power last week at Coterie in New York City.
The women’s contemporary trade show took place Sept. 19-21 at the Javits Center, allowing elevated retailers the opportunity to reconnect with category leaders and to discover newcomers to the premium denim scene.
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“The return of premium denim is such an integral part of Coterie this September,” said Kelly Helfman, president of Informa Markets Fashion. “Coterie is synonymous with the launch of multiple companies who were part of the premium denim boom in the 2000s and we are pleased to be able to offer such a strong selection of returning names like AG and Hudson who are part of our history as well as welcoming new and innovative brands.”
With the women’s denim market making room for a wider variety of silhouettes, the season poses fresh opportunities for buyers to make denim part of their mix. “Denim will always be a classic and timeless category and offering a strong range of options is of ongoing importance,” Helfman added.
Brands showcased the washes, fits and trends revving up for Spring/Summer 2024. Many also highlighted their missions to make jeans more sustainably.
Responsible design is at the forefront of Los Angeles-based Triarchy’s S/S ’24 collection. To avoid overproduction, Adam Taubenfligel, Triarchy’s co-founder and sustainability lead, said the brand limits the size of its collections to just seven styles.
“To us, we think that’s enough,” he said. “And if it’s not enough, I can’t help you. You do not need to look at 200 pairs of jeans each season.”
The collection is split between fashion and core products, all offered in classic indigo, black and off-white colorways. The more experimental fashion offering for S/S ’24 features denim florets, dresses, cropped shackets and dark indigo tie-dye pieces. The idea, Taubenfligel said, is that the fashion range captures the consumer while the core collection keeps them coming back.
“With Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, they love the fashion because it really allows the customer to discover the brand and then spill into core,” he said.
Another sustainability-minded brand, AG Jeans, showcased its S/S ’24 iteration of its Jeans of Tomorrow concept at the show.
“The concept [for Jeans of Tomorrow] was to always evolve our sustainability efforts, and every season we’re trying to do something new,” Sam Ku, president of AG, said. “The first season was 100 percent biodegradable, and this is a new iteration of that.”
For the first time, Jeans of Tomorrow introduces a stretch component, which Ku expects to be a stronger seller than previous generations, as consumers continue to gravitate toward comfort.
The Los Angeles-based brand also debuted cropped wide-leg jeans as well as a straight cargo style to “get on board with the cargo trend,” said Jennifer Grosso, AG’s East Coast sales manager. Other styles like the “Annalee” incorporate utility-inspired colors like white, green and blue. Grosso added that the key to executing utility successfully is keeping the fit feminine instead of “a more masculine, oversized fit.”
Australian label Abrand is operating on a different wavelength for S/S ’24, fully embracing the oversized look.
“At the heart of this season are baggy fits—the celebrity and It-girl wardrobe essential right now,” said Phoebe Woods, head of marketing of Threebyone, Abrand’s parent company. “Whether you’ve seen it on social media’s biggest trendsetters or some of the most memorable runways of late, there’s no doubt baggy is everywhere.”
Key styles in Abrand’s collection are the high-waisted Carrie, the 95 Baggy, the Y2K-inspired 99 Low Baggy and the fashion-forward 95 Super Baggy.
Joe’s Jeans also embraced the baggier fit by introducing the Lou Lou, a slouchy wide-leg cut made with lightweight denim for a more fluid, drapey look.
The brand also experimented with colors. “Spring and Summer 2024 colors are fresh and modern,” Alice Jackman, Joe’s Jeans’ women’s design director, said. “We have a foundation of neutrals, navy and optic white across both denim and collection and then we’re peppering in some beautiful and wearable pop colors from lemongrass yellow to hot red and Mediterranean blue.”
DL1961 also debuted bolder silhouettes. The brand’s Lucila, an ultra-high rise style with an ultra-wide leg, is available in indigo and linen.
“Another new offering is Desi, a relaxed, vintage-inspired bootcut with hand-finished destruction for a lived-in look,” said Sarah Ahmed, CEO and co-founder of DL1961.
In addition to new fits, DL1961 is building out the variety of options available for its two best-selling fits, the Bridget bootcut and the Hepburn wide-leg. Ahmed said the brand is adding multiple inseams, rises and an array of fabrications.
“We’ve also seen great success with our low-rise straight leg Drue, which we’re now offering in two inseams, light and mid washes, and an option with heavy destruction,” she said.
Meanwhile, Lee launched the Rider jeans, a nod to its utility and workwear heritage.
“We wanted to create a five-pocket jean that was around the opening price point, $89-$99 for premium but make it look like it’s a $200 wash and finish, using better fabrics and elevating the product,” said Sean Naughton, national sales director at Lee’s parent company, Kontoor Brands.
He added that the brand saw an opportunity to “energize the five-pocket program.” While trends like utility are strong selling points, he said there’s demand for elevated jeans at opening price points.
