Prada, Dior and Loro Piana Dominate Chinese Social Media, Gucci Plays Catch-up
Prada, Dior and Loro Piana won eyeballs on Chinese social media for the months of July and August, according to the latest report from Bernstein.
According to Bernstein’s “momentum score,” Loro Piana, Prada, Dior, Chanel and Miu Miu were the top five players on Chinese social media for the two months.
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Bernstein’s ranking is based on brand-related engagement data from Baidu, WeChat, Weibo, Xiaohongshu and Douyin.
The report noted that Gucci, traditionally a power player on Chinese social media, was playing catch-up with its peers due to its creative transition, but the label’s star-studded, much anticipated Sabato De Sarno debut managed to win back outsized attention online.
“Gucci, a lion, though hungry, is still a lion on China‘s social media,” said the Bernstein report.
According to Bernstein’s calculation, Gucci’s Chinese social media engagement during Milan Fashion Week last week surpassed Prada by 20 percent, Tod’s by around nine times and Brunello Cucinelli‘s by about 80 times. Based on streaming data from Weibo, Gucci’s livestreamed show received 63.65 million views, Prada’s scored 42.39 million views and Tod’s garnered 13.32 million views.
“This prominence can be attributed to its extensive marketing on social media, which included inviting top celebrities to the show, decorating major city facades ahead of the show, and extending the show into the metaverse immediately after the live event,” the Bernstein report said.
However, Chinese netizens had polarizing views about De Sarno’s Gucci debut.
“If the new Gucci sells well, then it’s really over,” read one post, while another said, “one word to summarize the new Gucci: Miu Miu-like.” The two critical comments were on Xiaohongshu that received 41,200 and 33,200 views, respectively.
“Gucci’s 2024 spring/summer collection looks like it will sell well!” read another post with 31,600 views.
“The consensus regarding the show is neutral, as the collection is seen as practical but somewhat underwhelming. Historically, Gucci’s appeal has hinged on its flamboyant creativity. With its vast existing customer base, the jury is still out whether Chinese consumers will embrace Gucci’s latest venture into a more subdued luxury style,” said Bernstein in the report.
Similarly, Chinese netizens were critical of Daniel Lee’s sophomore collection at Burberry, mentioning additional concerns over its pricing strategy and brand awareness.
“[Burberry] introduced its ready-to-wear collection at a higher price, only to reduce those prices a few weeks later in-store. This has led to further negative feedback on Chinese social media,” explained the Bernstein report.
Despite doubling down on marketing efforts, which included a series of citywide takeovers and a star-studded front row that helped Burberry win the attention sweepstake during London Fashion Week, the British heritage brand was not able to impress picky Xiaohongshu users. Based on Bernstein’s tracking data, Burberry received less than 50 percent of the total traction in seven days compared to what Gucci amassed in four days after the show.
With unmatched creative energy and marketing prowess, power players such as Prada and Dior continued to lead the category that Bernstein called “heavy punchers.”
“The brands [Prada and Miu Miu] are capitalizing on the quirky ‘quiet luxury’ trend. The return of Raf Simons as the creative director has always resonated well with the Chinese audience, much like John Galliano,” wrote the report.
With similar association to “quiet luxury,” which has over ten million mentions on Xiaohongshu, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Loro Piana topped Bernstein’s momentum chart in recent months.
During its latest spring 2024 collection pop-up event, which explored Loro Piana’s affinity to Japanese craftsmanship, the appearance of traffic-driving celebrities, including Fei Xiang, Zhu Zhu and Ma Sichun, helped amplify that message on Chinese social media.
Fei, the 1980s heartthrob, recently found renewed fame by starring in the latest blockbuster fantasy film “Creation of the Gods.” Fei was also the center of Chinese social media attention at Salvatore Ferragamo and Jil Sander’s runway presentations.
Looking at the hard luxury segment, Bernstein highlighted the strength of Longines and Omega, which made gains from “the pent-up demand due to China’s reopening and the anticipation surrounding Swatch Group‘s second price increase on Sept. 1,” according to the report.
As the go-to jeweler for China’s new rich, Cartier‘s social media presence has waned this year due to the company’s conscious decision to limit promotional efforts while focusing on VIP-related events instead.
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