Power Dressing, Activewear Star in Matchesfashion’s Fall 2023 Buying Report
LONDON — Matchesfashion’s flame is burning bright for fall 2023.
On Wednesday, the brand shared their women’s and menswear fall 2023 predictions and what they will be buying into for the coming season.
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In January, private equity investor Apax gave Matchesfashion a vote of confidence in the shape of 60 million pounds in fresh funding.
The investment comes on the heels of an improved performance under the latest chief executive officer Nick Beighton, who joined the retailer last summer. The 60 million pounds consists of 40 million pounds in fresh equity and 20 million pounds in debt.
It represents Apax’s largest commitment to Matchesfashion since it purchased the company in 2017 from founders Tom and Ruth Chapman and other investors.
“We’ll be able to better utilize technology, product, logistics and culture to help grow the top line of the business as well as our profitability,” Beighton told WWD at the time, expressing confidence in his executive team and strategy.
As the retailer enters its 36th year, this is what it announced for fall 2023.
On the women’s side, Matches is betting on large bags, ballet flats and sneakers. Bags had a 290 percent increase year-over-year, with key styles from Bottega Veneta and Loewe; ballet flats, an of-the-moment TikTok trend, were up 294 percent from the prior year. Sneakers were up 133 percent from the prior year.
There are also increases for leather jackets (79 percent), day tops (39 percent), red dresses (23 percent) and coats (22 percent).
In menswear, the retailer leaned more into suiting and activewear. Suits were up 208 percent, and activewear was up 158 percent. The key brands Matchesfashion are investing into are Ostrya, Jacques, Norda, Columbia and Houdini.
Shirts enjoyed an 80 percent increase year-on-year; knitwear, 39 percent; coats, 35 percent and formal shoes, 39 percent.
“Tailoring was the star of the show with myriad fabrications and textures articulating the intricate craftsmanship of the renowned archetype that is ‘The Suit.’ The mood was precision, with designers presenting their technical capabilities with neatly finished trousers and well-tailored sleeve lengths to showcase suiting that can be dressed up for business or more relaxed for everyday,” said Damien Paul, head of menswear buying at Matchesfashion.
“What was clear throughout was a more thoughtful approach to dressing, where shape and form allow our customer to curate their individual style with some cuts relaxed and boxy and others sharp and slim,” he added.
Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear at Matchesfashion, agreed that power dressing returns with a new seductive mood.
“This season, power dressing is less focused on borrowing from menswear and instead instills a feeling of women dressing for themselves with confidence. Fierce tailoring is juxtaposed with a refined, elegant approach. Chiffon blouses with exaggerated trains at Saint Laurent are worn with blazers and cigarette pants, showing how women will wear this trend in a soft yet sharp way,” she said.
The brands Matchesfashion are championing across women’s and men’s are Alaïa, Bite Studios, Our Legacy, Diesel, Lurline, Róhe, Karu Research and Saman Amel, a Stockholm-based atelier that the luxury retailer will be working on an exclusive capsule collection with.
On both sides of the category at Matchesfashion, the buyers are deeming coats to be the big hero piece of the season, through brands such as Loewe, Khaite, Prada, Lemaire and Jil Sander.
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