Potter Hill and Pilot Mound: The two most notorious hills in RAGBRAI history loom large

Philip Joens, Des Moines Register
·4 min read

As RAGBRAI prepares for its hilliest edition ever, here are two climbs from past rides that veteran riders count among the most challenging they've encountered on the Register's Annual Great Bicycle Ride Across Iowa.

Pilot Mound/'Twister' Hill

The road takes its name from a 70-foot glacial mound located just southeast of the tiny city of Pilot Mound, to which it gives its name. But the area's most impressive topographic feature is the descent of 130th Street as it passes eastward along the northern edge of town, then plunges 600 feet into the deep-riven Des Moines River valley.

Over the 50 editions of RAGBRAI so far, this hill has terrified RAGBRAI riders numerous times as they hit speeds of 40 mph on the descent. And then, reaching the bridge across the river, they face grinding their way back out. RAGBRAI has climbed Pilot Mound in at least 1980, 2011 and 2018.

"It's long and it's very steady," said David Ertl, a USA Cycling certified coach and coach of the Des Moines Cycle Club Race Team who writes a training blog on RAGBRAI's website. "It's steep for the average person. But it's just three-quarters of a mile long."

The stretch of road got a second name, "Twister Hill," when scenes from the 1996 movie "Twister" were filmed there.

More: From the archives: Photos from 'Twister' movie site in Iowa

In the movie, Helen Hunt's character tries to drive to the top of the hill as winds and debris pound her pickup truck, carrying a scientific device she and co-star Bill Paxton want to place in the path of the looming tornado dead ahead. "We're almost there! We're almost there!" Hunt shouts as a boat lofted by the winds flies past their truck and crashes onto the road.

That's the same thing cyclists say as they battle their way up the hill, only to encounter another section of the hill around a curve. Later in the scene with Hunt and Paxton, a windblown bicycle hits the truck. As cyclists reach the top of the hill, it is likewise common for them to feel the urge to throw their bikes back downhill.

A Brian Duffy cartoon about Pilot Mound/ Twister Hill in 1998
A Brian Duffy cartoon about Pilot Mound/ Twister Hill in 1998

'Welcome to Potter Hell'

Near the end of RAGBRAI in 2010 on a sunny Saturday morning outside Dubuque, RAGBRAI turned into the great walk across Iowa. As riders approached their final hurdle before reaching the end of the ride at the Mississippi River, young men sat drinking in lawn chairs next to a cardboard sign they had spray-painted with the message, "Welcome to Potter Hell." Cyclists passing by trembled as they got their first look at the hill towering above them.

Some RAGBRAI riders rode, some walked their bikes up Potter Hill outside of Graf on July 31, 2010. Many riders said the mile long, steep hill was the hardest hill they've ever had to climb. Many got off their bikes and walked much of the hill.
Some RAGBRAI riders rode, some walked their bikes up Potter Hill outside of Graf on July 31, 2010. Many riders said the mile long, steep hill was the hardest hill they've ever had to climb. Many got off their bikes and walked much of the hill.

Potter Hill, northeast of Graf, was named after Charles "Zenda" and Grace Potter, who bought a farm at the top in 1942. On RAGBRAI in 2010, it separated jocks from casual cyclists. About two-thirds of riders gave up and walked it.

The whole ride, which was the third-flattest to that point, led up to Potter Hill. Ertl mentioned tips for riding up it in one of his blogs that year. The 1.5 mile climb averaged a 6% grade, but parts were much steeper.

"You will die, or at least feel that way after a minute or two and the rest of the hill will be tough," Ertl wrote. "Start out going up the hill a little more slowly than you think you can ride it. The first objective should be to make it up every hill without having to walk."

Walkers became hazards for riders who stayed in gear and weaved between them. At the start of the ascent, the random chatter normally heard on RAGBRAI ended, then-Des Moines Register Reporter Grant Schulte wrote. Only the ping of shifting, whirring of chains and heavy breathing could be heard.

"Don't look up," one woman muttered as she pedaled. "Don't look up."

Many RAGBRAI riders became RAGBRAI walkers on their way up Potter Hill outside of Graf July 31, 2010. Many riders said the mile long, steep hill was the hardest hill they've ever had to climb.
Many RAGBRAI riders became RAGBRAI walkers on their way up Potter Hill outside of Graf July 31, 2010. Many riders said the mile long, steep hill was the hardest hill they've ever had to climb.

Those who reached the top wore a badge of honor after slaying the dragon, while those who walked felt humbled.

But whether it's Potter Hill or another one of the many rolling hills on this year's RAGBRAI route, there is never shame in walking up hills, Ertl said.

"There's no shame in walking if you have to," Ertl said. "It's easier than riding."

Philip Joens has ridden RAGBRAI 18 times and completed the river-to-river trek seven times. He covers retail, real estate and RAGBRAI for the Des Moines Register. He can be reached at 515-284-8184, at pjoens@registermedia.com or on Twitter @Philip_Joens

This article originally appeared on Des Moines Register: RAGBRAI's most notorious climbs: Potter Hill and Pilot Mound