The Post-Raf Changes Begin at Calvin Klein

Steff Yotka
Following Raf Simons’s departure, the PVH Corp.-owned brand is swiftly undoing the Belgian designer’s work.

When Raf Simons arrived in New York to helm Calvin Klein, the jewel in PVH’s American fashion empire, he was quick to update the brand. First there was the new name for his runway collections, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC. Then came a Sterling Ruby–designed makeover of the label’s legendary flagship on Madison Avenue in New York. The new name was emblazoned everywhere from turtleneck collars to the metallic toes of cowboy boots, while Instagrams from the bright yellow store were unmissable in the weeks following its opening.

And then, Simons and Calvin Klein announced their surprise breakup in the twilight hours of 2018, leaving the fashion world stunned that Simons’s great American fashion experiment was over.

Now, just weeks after the news of Simons’s departure was announced, the company is swiftly undoing the changes he made. According to a press release from Calvin Klein CEO Steve Shiffman, Calvin Klein plans to rename its runway ready-to-wear collection, abandoning the 205W39NYC label. There is no word yet as to what the collection will be called, but Shiffman emphasized that the runway business would be rechristened under a “new name, design approach, and creative director.”

Who will step in to fill Simons’s shoes? No word on that either, but when he or she arrives, they will also have to contend with CK’s new retail plan, as well as an overall repositioning of the high fashion business to be more “digital first” and reflective of Calvin Klein’s other collections, including Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear. Shiffman stated that the goal for the CK brand is to hit $12 billion in global retail sales in the next few years—in the third quarter of 2018 its sales were reported to be $963 million—while “meeting consumer demands by creating culturally relevant products and experiences that engage communities by pushing fashion and culture forward.” In addition to rethinking its runway strategy, the label also plans to create more online and in-person experiences to connect with consumers.

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