Play lord of the manor in these Irish castles, fantasy fortresses and heir-B&Bs

If you’ve ever dreamed that you’re an aristocrat languishing in your silk stockings, enjoying the ennui in your country pile, you’ve dreamed of Ashford Castle, an 800-year-old manor in County Mayo. It sits grandly on 350 vivid green acres, overlooking Lough Corrib, which empties into Galway Bay in the west of Ireland. Its turrets date back to 1228. But it’s best known for its 19th-century pedigree, as the former estate of the Guinness family.

The Dublin brewers of the famous stout bought the estate in 1852, and used it as their hunting lodge, showing up all of twice a year. The family lorded over the then 26,000 acres for decades, mostly run by tenant farmers. But as the world changed, the estate dwindled until, in 1939, it was purchased to be run as a hotel, saving it from ruin.

After a few changes of hands, in 2013, South African hotel op. Red Carnation Hotels is its current steward. They sunk an estimated $100 million into the purchase and total renovation of the estate and its 83 castle rooms.

What that means for you, the visiting wannabe gentry, is the chance to swan up the graveled drive where liveried staff line up at the imposing stone steps.

Inside, individually decorated bedrooms (from $509) feature velvet and silk, with luxurious bathrooms and views across the manicured lawn to the lake. Signature suites (from $2,308) are decorated and named with a nod to their patronage — past guests include Sen. Ted Kennedy and Pres. Ronald Reagan. (Oh, and Pierce Brosnan was married here).

As tempting as it is to retire to your spacious room, you need to get out and do the whole country squire thing, so join the resident wolfhounds on a morning stroll or have a canter on a Connemara pony. Cycle to the quaint village of Conk, and after, play golf or tennis.

Fish with the resident gillie, Frank Costello, a third-generation employee of the estate. The Guinness shooting experience will challenge your sniper skills on clay targets — but the highlight of the castle is the Falconry School.

That’s a lot of fresh air. Never fear, there is a spa here, as well as a relaxing pool housed in a bronze and glass conservatory.

The property has six restaurants and three bars in all, but its signature meals are served in the grand George V Dining Room, named for a visit from the prince of Wales in 1905. Resplendent in royal blue velvet emblazoned with the prince’s ostrich feather crest, it’s certainly fit for a king. Here, executive Chef Philippe Farineau gives innovative twists to traditional favorites.

After eating like a royal, get plenty of rest: Tomorrow will be another busy day living a country squire’s life of leisure.

It’s a crenelated conundrum: so many castles, so little time. The Irish countryside is littered with gorgeous old piles, whether romantic or imposing, sitting amid the rolling hills, and many have been converted from private use into five-star hotels. To help tell the difference, we’ve deep-dived into four of the most impressive, offering a handy guide to help choose which is the right one for you.

Dromoland Castle

Best for: History buffs tracing their family line.

Quick craic: Just 15 minutes’ drive from Shannon Airport, this 97-room property sits amid 450 acres of parkland and is decorated like a medieval movie set. A multimillion-dollar makeover five years ago gave it velvet, pattern drapery and deep soaking tubs. Grab a cocktail in the octagonal bar, the family’s onetime library, and pack your clubs, too: The 18-holer here is a championship course, designed by Ron Kirby and JB Carr.

Castle cachet: Rebuilt several times, most recently in the 19th century.

Lord of the manor? The ancestral home of the O’Briens, who lived here for more than nine centuries before the cash-strapped Sir Donough bolstered his coffers by offering overnighters in the 1940s. Look for portraits of the fam throughout.

Cracking detail: Come here to find your inner Irishman with the resident genealogist who can follow your family tree to plot trips to ancestral villages (from $525).

Waterford Castle

Best for: Private island pros who love design.

Quick craic: Think of this as the castle world’s answer to a boutique hotel with just 19 rooms just outside Waterford, the charming city anchoring Ireland’s southeastern tip. It sits on its own private, 300-acre island. You can explore the property via clay pigeon shooting, archery and an 18-hole golf course. Best Insta-spot? The huge log fire in the entrance hall.

Castle cachet: Portions date back to the 11th century, but it’s been rebuilt several times since then.

Lord of the manor? This island was originally the Fitzgerald family seat, before becoming a hotel in the 1980s. It’s now owned by a wealthy local entrepreneur, Seamus Walsh.
Cracking detail: Don’t miss the chance to amble round Waterford, whose tony Georgian architecture is a legacy of its one-time boom, In the 18th century, the worldwide frenzy for its namesake crystal made locals wealthy (from $239).

Ballynahinch Castle

Best for: Lovelorn romantics and foodies.

Quick craic: Sitting on the Wild Atlantic Way, this Connemara castle has a dramatic backdrop: the Twelve Bens mountains. It’s a region where Irish language and culture remain prominent, a chance to truly immerse yourself in Celtic life. Come hungry, as there’s a salmon fishery on the site, and the head chef here is Danni Barry, an award-hogging talent who’s widely acknowledged as one of the country’s top talents. Her cooking is served up in a lavish room with Irish masterpieces by the likes of J.B. Yeats.

Castle cachet: Originally built in the 14th century by the ruling O’Flaherty clan.

Lord of the manor? Famous as the onetime home of His Highness the Maharaja Jam Sahib of Nawanagar, the first Indian to play test cricket. He holed up here, broken-hearted, after buying it in 1924 to indulge a passion for fly-fishing — and to be with the Irish woman he loved but was not allowed to marry. In 2015, Ireland’s richest man, Denis O’Brien, bought it.

Cracking detail: Bring a copy of Seamus Heaney’s poetry to browse, and read “Ballynahinch Lake” while you’re here, one of his stand-out works (from $505).

Adare Manor

Best for: Top golfers.

Quick craic: The 840-acre estate has seen a major infusion of investment over the last decade — an estimated $85 million, in fact. The funds upgraded the property, including the construction of a new wing. There’s a spa by La Mer, four restaurants (including a Michelin-starred Oak Room) plus an underground speakeasy-style bar. Beyond its signature golf, there’s falconry, and even the latest luxe hotel must-have, a padel court or two.

Castle cachet: A mash-up of 17th- and 19th-century buildings, with a 21st-century extension.

Lord of the manor? Horse racing billionaire J.P. McManus snapped it up in 2015. He’s the latest outsider to buyt it since the hard-up aristocrat, the earl of Dunraven and Mount-Earl sold his ancestral home in the early 1980s.

Cracking detail: The golf is so good here, the Tom Fazio-designed course (another upgrade since its reopening in 2018) will host the Ryder Cup in 2027 (from $759).