FLORENCE — The menswear pack reunited for the first stop on the winter fashion circuit inside the Fortezza da Basso — the peacocks back in force gathering in the courtyards.
Pitti Uomo is still in rebuilding mode after two pandemic-disrupted years and the fall 2023 collections hinged on retail-friendly classics, such as lightly constructed soft coats, corduroy suits and workwear-inspired plaid shirts. Brunello Cucinelli’s take on the American preppy look and a tonal winter white explosion were among the most directional trends at the fair, where wardrobe building pieces reigned supreme.
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Here, a look at the leading trends from the fairgrounds.
Faux or real, the shearling jacket is clearly having a moment. Drawing inspiration from military staples such as the aviator jacket or the utilitarian “Lumberjack” style, this outerwear adds a cinematic flair even to the most casual ensemble, as seen here in this Roy Rogers option.
No more white after Labor Day? The Pitti exhibitors disagree. Volume-pleasing winter pants generously cut, as well as parkas and textured shirts were among the key pieces proposing tonal white looks, including this Les Deux outfit, are the season’s key uniform.
This American classic made a big return on the spring 2023 catwalks (remember Kate Moss opening Bottega Veneta?) and the trend has continued into fall, influencing the offering of shirtmakers at the fair, including Revolution. They went all in on plaids and checks in a variety of textured flannels and thick cottons for shirts and shirt jackets.
Corduroy was everywhere, no one could disagree. As the defining fabric of the season it appeared on suits, as in the By the Oak ensemble seen here, utility pants and even tailored topcoats. A wide range of corduroy gauges allowed for different takes on this 1970s favorite.
After adopting sweats for several years, fashion customers are on the hunt for dressier options and the menswear cardigan offers the ideal path. This Amaranto style blends tradition with nods to the grunge aesthetic, providing necessary street cred.
A return to preppy? Groundbreaking. Jokes aside, when the king of Pitti Uomo, Brunello Cucinelli, embraces this American collegiate trend, the message is clear. Varsity jackets, tennis sweaters and heather grey pants were among Cucinelli’s choices for the season.
“Luxe things that you just want to throw on and go,” said a retailer about the latest Altea collection and it summarized one of the fair’s main themes, offering travel-friendly, luxurious and comfy tropes, including the traditional double-breasted Chesterfield, the belted robe style and driving coats.
Separates are no longer the casual alternative to suits — the season’s revisited take centers on the idea of adding a more sophisticated flair to tailoring. Caruso’s double-breasted example inspired by the 1980s “New Romantics” look offered just that.