Pitti Uomo Gears Up for Fall Edition as Italian Menswear Sustains Momentum

Martino Carrera
·4 min read

MILAN — The upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo, slated to run Jan. 9 to 12, is poised to be one of the most extensive since before the pandemic, with a growing number of exhibitors, three guest designers and marquee names making cameos at the fair for special projects.

“This edition comes on the heels of an exceptionally positive summer fair,” said Pitti Immagine president Antonio De Matteis, who is also chief executive officer of Kiton. “Overall, I see the landscape as pretty positive…which gives us confidence about Pitti’s prospects.”

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Despite the slowdown, or normalization, in luxury sales, he sees the industry as well equipped to face headwinds. “I also believe that the harder the times, the more buyers move and travel to understand where changes lie,” he offered.

According to preliminary data provided by Confindustria Moda, in the first seven months of 2023, men’s fashion generated 5.4 billion euros in exports, an 11.4 percent gain compared to the same period a year earlier. By comparison, in the same period last year, the sector’s exports amounted to 4.1 billion euros, up 6 percent versus a year earlier.

Although France and Germany dominate the list of top importing countries, the former jumping more than 20 percent, the U.S. continues to represent a strong destination country, with exports Stateside increasing 13.2 percent, as well as Japan and South Korea growing 23 and 27.9 percent, respectively.

Conversely, imports from extra-European Union countries have seen a contraction of 5 percent, with double-digit declines in imports from countries such as China and Bangladesh, signaling, according to De Matteis, a “propension of end consumers toward high-quality products, which is an opportunity for Italian companies,” he said.

The packed January schedule will see 835 brands exhibiting their fall 2024 men’s collections at the fairgrounds, a slight uptick compared to 789 brands a year before. The Fortezza da Basso venue where the trade show is held is undergoing partial renovation, which is expected to have little impact on logistics, according to Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine.

Napoleone highlighted the strong international footprint of the upcoming edition, with foreign brands accounting for 43 percent of the total and making up as much as two-thirds of some of the fair’s key sections, including Superstyling, dedicated to cutting-edge names.

Confirming the sections that indicate Pitti Uomo’s focus on the evolution of men’s wardrobes, including Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, I Go Out and Superstyling, the winter edition will feature a few returning exhibitors — such as Woolrich, which has been absent for a few seasons having decamped to Milan Fashion Week, and Borsalino — and newcomers, including Barbour, the U.S.-based Brett Johnson, and watch brand D1 Milano.

A range of cutting-edge projects will spotlight creativity from different areas of the world. In addition to the recurring Scandinavian Manifesto dedicated to cool Scandinavian brands; J Quality Factory Brand Project focused on Japanese craftsmanship; the sophomore edition of the Detroitissimi section, with eight workwear brands based out of Detroit and mentored by the College for Creative Studies, or CCS, and the seminal edition of Neudeutsch.

As the name that means “new German” suggests, the showcase overseen by Julian Dynov, creative director and trend scout, will spotlight 17 brands based in Germany and with different backgrounds to frame the new wave of made in Germany design, across fashion, accessories, décor and even food and beverage. The move reflects the strong footprint of Italian men’s fashion in the country.

The upcoming edition’s trifecta of guest designers includes, as reported, the U.S.-based Todd Snyder, who is returning to the runway in Florence as the fair’s “designer showcase” with a show on the opening night, Jan. 9, at 5 p.m. local time at the Stazione Leopolda venue. According to Napoleone, Snyder’s invitation to the trade show is in line with their ambition to strengthen ties with the U.S. market.

His show will be followed by those of Luca Magliano, scheduled for Jan. 10 at a still undisclosed location, and by British brand S.S. Daley, helmed by Liverpool-native designer Steven Stokey-Daley, the 2022 recipient of the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, who’s presenting on the last night, Jan. 11.

A few new fashion projects will make their international debuts at Pitti Uomo in January. Guess Jeans under the lead of Nicolai Marciano is to unveil a sustainably-minded collection with an installation at the fair and side event at the Teatro del Maggio venue in central Florence, while Tod’s and Automobili Lamborghini, which had unveiled a collaboration in February, are poised to present the first co-branded collection of leather goods, apparel, footwear and other accessories.

As reported, Camper and Camperlab creative director Achilles Ion Gabriel is introducing his namesake genderless fashion brand at the fair before presenting it in Paris during men’s fashion week, while Stefano Chiassai, a fashion design consultant who works for luxury brands, together with his daughter Corinna Chiassai, will debut the one-off “Velvet Mi Amor” collection and book, the latter published by Silvana Editoriale, entirely centered on the use of velvet treated in different ways.

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