A Perfect Weekend Away in Dublin
There are certain obvious summer destinations that are perpetually spoiled by warm weather and sunshine. Dublin is not one of them. On the other hand, a late summer weekend in Dublin might just be your best shot at experiencing the city with agreeable weather. In a place where gentle rains and crisp breezes are the norm, the chance to see the city burst into life on a clear, warm summer day is certainly worth the trip, though the atmospheric haze of Dublin on a drizzling afternoon is magical in its own right.
The capitol is home to familiar names like Vogue's August cover star, Saoirse Ronan. The 24-year-old three-time Academy Award nominee took author Sally Rooney, another Irish lass, to Hugh Lane Gallery for some art observation, one of her favorite pastimes. Below, a few other ideas for spending the perfect weekend in the city:
Where to Stay
Merrion Hotel
The Merrion offers elegant European hospitality befitting its stately location, a row of 18th-century Georgian townhomes across the street from Ireland’s equivalent of the White House. Not only is there a spa, a delightful afternoon tea service, and graciously proportioned and outfitted rooms, but the hotel also houses one of the country’s most important private collections of 19th- and 20th-century paintings. Don’t be surprised if there’s a Yeats hanging down the hall from your room.
The Dean
With a contemporary vibe that New Yorkers would equate with the Bowery or Ace Hotels, the Dean has electrified the Dublin hospitality scene. The lobby has an interesting cast of characters passing through at all hours of the day and night, and the rooftop bar and restaurant Sophie’s features one of the only 360-degree views of the city. The Cuban Espresso Martini perfectly captures Dublin’s cross-pollination of old and new: Havana 7 rum, PX sherry, cold brew coffee and, of course, a splash of Guinness.
Where to Eat
Delahunt
Centrally located on bustling Camden Street, this restaurant bills itself as “contemporary Irish cuisine.” A pan-seared duck breast comes with celeriac, black pudding, and blackberries—if you try black pudding at one place in Dublin, this is where to do it. Head upstairs to the bar for after-dinner drinks (the cocktail menu has lots of gingerbread, rhubarb and spice flavors throughout) and when properly fueled up for a bout of late-night, post-drinks dancing, head out the back alley to nearby Copper Face Jacks.
Chapter One
Not many restaurants in Dublin engage with Irish history and Irish present the way Chapter One does. Drawing on the country’s rich farming tradition and executing modern culinary techniques, this Michelin-starred destination proudly lists its local suppliers on each menu. That means even the guy who brings in the seaweed, which tops the pearl tapioca starter along with goat cheese and shiitake mushrooms. Indulge in the tasting menu with wine pairings.
Coppinger Row
A stop on Beyoncé and Jay Z’s itinerary when they passed through the Emerald Isle, the menu at this lively eatery skews Mediterranean, with options like herb-crusted lamb rack or marinated poussin. For post-dinner drinks, hop a few blocks over to Lemon & Duke, or do Dublin nightlife the authentic way— by following the crowds to whatever pub feels right that night.
What to Do
Dublin oozes literary heritage, so channel James Joyce’s Ulysses with a long, meandering walk through downtown. Bookworms must visit Trinity College, if not to snap an Instagram of the Long Room, then to pore over the library’s collection of some five million books. Sweny’s on Lombard Street is the nonfictional pharmacy where Ulysses’s hero famously buys a bar of lemon soap—sign the Sweny’s guest book and the owner will sing you a Gaelic ballad on his guitar. And just around the corner is Oscar Wilde’s family home, which faces the Oscar Wilde memorial statue inside Merrion Square Park. Less interested in books? Check out the rich architecture that fills this part of town. The houses on Merrion Square and along St. Stephen’s Green are some of Europe’s most enduring examples of Georgian architecture, and the buildings of Trinity College date back to the 16th century.
No matter how quick your trip to Dublin, be sure to spend at least one afternoon driving out to the beautiful countryside. The most time-effective way to do so on a weekend trip is to visit County Kildare, nestled in the rolling hillsides just half an hour from downtown Dublin. Saddle up for a horseback ride at Abbeyfield Farm, where you will be treated to an impossibly scenic ride through fields dotted with bales of hay. And while in Kildare Village, get your shopping fix at Só Collective, which carries a curated mix of the best Irish makers and artisans, from delicate ceramics, to balms and lotions made from local honeybees.
If something less ready-to-wear and more custom strikes your fancy, the atelier of Helen Cody back in Dublin is essential. Working out of her quiet home just steps away from Christ Church Cathedral, Cody worked as a stylist at French Vogue and under Azzedine Alaïa before striking out on her own. With her entire business based on appointment-only couture, her handcrafted dresses have won over the hearts of many an Irish socialite and actress, including the likes of Saoirse Ronan.
And of course, no trip to Dublin is complete without some stout, and the Guinness Storehouse tour is practically a rite of passage for visiting the city. Rest assured, locals endorse the experience as an authentic, unmissable part of any trip to Dublin. After you complete the tour, pending any luck of the Irish, you’ll be greeted by clear skies and expansive views as you take in a pint or two or three at the rooftop bar.
Watch Saoirse Ronan on Doing Her Own Stunts, Hosting SNL and Pronouncing Her Name:
