Peanutty dan dan noodles: Killer comfort you can whip up on the fly

Amy Drew Thompson, Orlando Sentinel
·4 min read

I was careful this morning. Very light breakfast. Lots of water. It’s often part of the strategy when I know I have to “eat for work” midday. But before lunch, I had to take some photos for this story, a feature on a dish that — back when I was working from home, taking care of young children and actually had a network of people I was getting together with on the reg — was one of the most-requested in my repertoire: James Beard Award-winning pastry chef Joanne Chang‘s Dan Dan Noodles.

It feels like I snipped it, literally, from a copy of Food & Wine 20+ years ago. But visiting the link this morning, I read that the recipe first appeared there in 2007, which means I was actually only taking care of one child. On the outside, anyway. I was pregnant with the other one. Perhaps it wasn’t just the DNA, but the spice of the ginger and jalapeño, the funk of the garlic, that gave her that gorgeous, curly, mermaid-worthy hair. Because for damn sure, I ate a ton of this stuff while she was cookin’.

Maybe it imbued in her an early love for Asian flavors. It would for anyone, quite frankly. Rich sesame oil and toasty-fried peanuts, the salty umami of soy sauce blended with ingredients bright (rice vinegar, cilantro) and tossed amid the carby comfort of noodles? It’s the luscious eradicator of best-laid plans. For once the shoot was over, I realized, as though waking from a dream, that I was chopsticking way too much of it into my face.

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The recipe appears as written here, but over time (and because I had to double it for larger, party-sized bowls), I began to play with the ingredients, upping the jalapeño factor, seeds included, chopping up a little cilantro and tossing it into the mix for a nice green pop. I’ve used all manner of noodles, from chow mein and rice to spaghetti and soba. I love the latter, especially, but this sauce is one of those “tastes good on a flip-flop” deals. There are no bad choices.

It’s entirely vegan as is and, depending on your noodle choice (sub tamari for soy sauce) and BOOM! Now, it’s gluten-free, too!

Make it once, twice and do the same as I, tweaking it to your desired level of sweet, salty, spicy. Make more for greater noodle coverage. For dipping. For spreading.

Though the noodles are generally served cold, I’ve found it’s nice warm, too, and pairs well with proteins like fried tofu or grilled chicken. Vegetables, too. Bok choy. Snow peas. Broccoli. In fact, the sauce — chunky and wonderful — is nice with any of those things, even without the noodles. Paired with veggies or proteins in a wrap or a bao, it’s delicious. Textural and nutty. Yes, there are spicier versions (heck, spoon some Momofuku Chili Crunch on top and call it a day!) and more intricate ones with minced pork, preserved mustard greens and ground Sichuan peppercorns, but this is the simple, tasty one I discovered at a time in my life when that was exactly as much as I had time for. My family loved it. We had fun making it. And that was more than enough.

It’s still glued down in an old journal-style book where I stick and/or jot down recipes I love or want to try. Others around it date this era of my life, like the rings in a tree.

I don’t make cakes with googly eyes or palm-sized sweet potato pies with mini marshmallows on top anymore, but it’s nice to see them when I return to this recipe and be reminded. It’s almost like I stuck it here for just that reason, so I can reflect on what was then and be happy I’m still cooking for and with them now. <3

Find me on Facebook, TikTok, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com, For more foodie fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.

Dan Dan Noodles

Recipe by Joanne Chang, courtesy of Food + Wine

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup peanut oil

  • 1/2 cup raw peanuts

  • 1 small jalapeño, minced

  • 1 small garlic clove, halved

  • One 1/4-inch slice of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

  • 2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

  • 2 tablespoons water

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar

  • 1 tablespoon Sriracha

  • 1 tablespoon sugar

  • 1 teaspoon sesame oil

  • Kosher salt

  • 12 ounces chow mein noodles

  • Cucumber matchsticks, sliced scallions, chopped cilantro, sesame seeds and lime halves for garnish

Directions
In a large skillet, heat the peanut oil. Add the peanuts and fry over moderate heat until golden, about 8 minutes; let cool slightly. Transfer the peanuts and oil to a food processor. Add the jalapeño, garlic and ginger and process until minced. Add the soy sauce, water, rice vinegar, Sriracha, sugar and sesame oil and process until smooth. Season generously with salt.

In a pot of boiling salted water, cook the noodles until al dente. Drain and rinse under cold water; pat dry. Toss the noodles with the dressing and mound in serving bowls; top with the garnishes and serve.