Party Like the ’90s: Young Designers in Milan Embrace Sleek Glam
Young designers in Milan focused on uncomplicated silhouettes and rich embellishments to rewrite the dress code of night owls for fall 2023.
The clash of masculine and feminine resonated in the fall collection of Alessandro Vigilante, whose continued research on flattering silhouettes for the body in motion, had him work with a sculptural scuba fabric for razor-sharp strapless dresses and vegan rubber for high-slit frocks.
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They were counterbalanced by formfitting jersey midi dresses and spaghetti mermaid gowns with plunging V-necks and lace bottoms trailing on the floor. Mysterious sensuality was also the defining trait of more demure looks, including roomy tailored pants with a corsetry-inspired overskirt paired with a sheer crewneck and bralette.
Along the same lines, Chb‘s Christian Boaro had graphic necklines on velvet midi dresses that oozed a subverted bourgeois vibe, as was the case with vinyl numbers, including a terrific trenchcoat, and turtlenecks paired with midi skirts in gray flannel, the ultimate menswear fabric.
Working a palette of black-and-whites that best translated the designer’s mood board filled with photographs from Helmut Newton and Richard Avedon, he channeled a glamorous attitude via zebra-printed pieces, from minidresses to furry floor-length overcoats. They were played against some handsome suiting including an ivory white, double-breasted tuxedo number that more than one gentleman would love wearing, too.
After only three years in business, Salvo Rizza said his fall collection was a look back at the fashion obsessions that originally led him to launch his Des Phemmes brand.
“The ‘90s, Kate Moss, early Calvin Klein ads, Helmut Lang,” he said, rapidly name-checking all his references. They were easily readable in this whirlwind of a collection, as in the denim pants revealing Des Phemmes branded briefs or slipdresses in pastels bearing a zebra pattern done in tiny sequins.
Punkish kilts and grunge-y madras coats and relaxed pajama-style pants, all bearing intricate crystal embroideries — a brand signature — mingled with ladylike sequined midi skirts and fuzzy mohair knits or see-through nude-look gowns scattered in crystals and layered under shearling jackets, a trending outerwear look for fall.
With its sleek image and easy-to-approach attitude, the Federica Tosi brand is carving a loyal following across different demographics. Flanking the label’s sharp tailoring, minimal dresses and two-piece sets shone in the ‘90s-evoking fall collection that oozed subtle seductiveness from its pure lines.
Covetable items included cropped tops leaving backs bare, mesh dresses with sparkly finishes and sensual body-con jersey frocks with cutouts. Sequined bralettes and matching pencil skirts were unfussy, party-ready essentials to have in the wardrobe come next fall.
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