Is This Paris's Next Great Restaurant?
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Who says you can’t go home again? Chef Dominique Crenn, the French-born force behind San Francisco’s Atelier Crenn, has committed herself to a summer in Paris—and to opening her first restaurant on her native soil. In June the chef will unveil Golden Poppy at the Hotel La Fantaisie in Faubourg Montmartre. Its name nods to the gardens surrounding the property, designed by Martin Brudnizki, and the inspiration behind her vision.
“A golden poppy is the state flower of California, so it’s the feeling and flavors of California,” Crenn says of the 82-seat space. Even on the grayest Parisian day, the interior conveys a sense of sunlight, and guests can linger over such dishes as abalone tacos with sauerkraut kimchi and pineapple salsa. The wine list comprises California and French labels. “California is a melting pot of global cuisine, so that’s what Golden Poppy will represent,” she says.
Crenn arrived in San Francisco in the 1980s, looking for work beyond the male-dominated restaurants in France. What she lacked in formal training she made up for with ambition, and after meeting chef Jeremiah Tower, Crenn was hired to work at Stars, his canteen for the era’s A-listers.
Today Crenn remains the only female chef in the United States to receive three Michelin stars, which were awarded to her for Atelier Crenn. She also holds a fourth, for her more casual Bar Crenn.
But lately Paris has been calling. Before La Fantaisie was a reality, Crenn and her fiancée, the actress Maria Bello, had purchased a home in the city. “It was where I started my life,” Crenn says, “and I always wanted to go back.”
For La Fantaisie’s proprietors, Crenn was the clear choice. “Travelers to Paris want to have a Parisian experience,” says co-owner Maxence Dussart, “but Dominique makes it interesting to locals, too.”
It isn’t lost on Crenn that opening in Paris signifies a seismic moment for her, but she can’t speak to the collective progress of the industry. “I’m not worried about how other restaurants are operating. That’s their problem,” she says. “But maybe we can inspire others to do better.”
This story appears in the Summer 2023 issue of Town & Country. SUBSCRIBE NOW
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