In his six years at Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena has explored a number of themes from Thirties screen sirens to Eighties dandies to Fifties pin-up cowgirls, always with a chainmail link. For spring, he took a trip to the well-worn Seventies with a show of “don’t worry, be happy” hearts, rainbows and daisies.
“I wanted to work on the pop side of Paco Rabanne,” he said backstage of the collection, whose elements were not particularly surprising, even if his decision to add men’s wear to the still-nascent women’s business this season was.
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Metallic leather patchwork sunset landscape jackets and high boots; embroidered jeans; loud-patterned suits with jumbo point collars; polka-dot floral foulard dresses cinched with metal butterfly belts, and suede bags swinging fringe were all a bit been there, worn that.
One bright spot was a floral guipure top with cascading sleeves and shorts that treated lace like the house mesh, for a contemporary elan.
No doubt, Dossena was trying to broaden commercial appeal by offering more forgiving silhouettes in metallic jersey, and cutesy pieces like a rainbow-stripe sweater, white-and-yellow daisy patterned chainmail skirt, and chainmail dress emblazoned with red hearts. But as a result, the collection lost some of the romance and hard-earned reputation for luxurious refinement.
Launch Gallery: Paco Rabanne RTW Spring 2020