Over the Garden Fence: Ed Pickens' bisque
It was one week ago when local master gardeners were invited to be part of a live demonstration oncooking as a way of enjoying the harvest season. The gardener who could put together two beloved aspects of his life — gardening and cooking — was Ed Pickens.
He had an interesting delivery style. Restauranteur and chef, Ed is one of the newest master gardeners. He brought all the needed ingredients for a butternut squash-apple bisque. The pot was on the stove.
As butter was dumped into the pot, Ed began talking about his experiences over 47 years in theAshland and Mansfield areas. He sliced a Vidalia onion while narrative of his experiences unfoldedwith places like Shakey's Pizza, Lum's and Surrey Inn; he served as cook. He turned and pickedup a container with pieces of apple and pear; these went into the pot. The slicing, dicing andchopping continued. He would talk about each item then contribute it into the simmering pot.
The butternut squash had been cut in half and roasted on the outside grill. He recommended a new variety called Honey Patch saying that it was smaller but brought a sweet nutty flavor to foods.He spooned the baked flesh right into the pot.
Making enough for 20 servings
Another story about a wedding in 1982 surfaced. A chicken base was added while Ed told us how it was much better than bouillon. The aroma was filling the room by this time. Looking around at the tables a quick survey saw a need for 20 servings. After peering into the brew, Ed announced he needed enough for everyone. Knowing just how to solve this, Ed deposited more water.
But he was not finished. Soup simmered on. A cluster of thyme was dropped into the pot. He had grown rosemary, too, and slipped that into the pot. When Ed came to the sage he cleaned away lower leaves, tore off the rest and piled them neatly. Then he rolled them together and snipped cross-wise. This small pile joined the other herbs which had been grown on his patio.
By this time he had convinced me that this was a venture without a recipe. When he remarked thathe "cooked from the seat of his pants," I was convinced. The activity continued as some brown sugar and more seasonings went into the brew. With almost perfect timing, a corn starch slurry became the thickening agent. An anecdotal moment told of mashed potatoes he made for his siblings. The servings clung to the plates when the kids held them upside down.
A final touch
That bisque aroma was now pervasive, but the coup de gras was the heavy cream that went in and was beaten with a pride and joy kitchen blender. We learned that he owned the Café on Main in Mansfield.
The whole time this chef never measured one ingredient. I do not lie. Such faith. Before serving us Ed tipped two trays so that we could see the focaccia bread made with just four ingredients. It had been well-oiled with olive oil. Using his own rendering, caramelized onion, Sun Gold tomatoes, Asiago cheese and rosemary brought more flavor.
This relaxed style of cooking is why Ed has survived so long in this art form. Some of us savored two bowls of this bisque that night which helped us feel the autumn season. We now know of more of his skills which relate directly to growing.
Life is good.
Mary Lee Minor is a member of the Earth, Wind and Flowers Garden Club, an accredited master gardener, a flower show judge for the Ohio Association of Garden Clubs and a former sixth grade teacher.
This article originally appeared on Bucyrus Telegraph-Forum: Ed Pickens prepares a bisque using fresh garden ingredients
