Orlando’s Michelin galaxy expands with four new stars

Four new restaurants were added to Orlando’s expanding galaxy of Michelin-starred venues during Thursday night’s awards ceremony at Tampa’s Edition Hotel, bringing the Sunshine State’s total to 26.

Baldwin Park stunner Camille, led by chef Tung Phan, intimate newcomer Natsu, Disney’s famed Victoria & Albert’s and Kevin and Maria Ruiz’s Papa Llama, which has completed an evolution from locally lauded Peruvian pop-up to Bib Gourmand recipient to full-fledged culinary superstar, are the latest Orlando restaurants to hold the one-star distinction, joining Capa, Kadence and Soseki.

Knife & Spoon, which earned a Michelin star in Florida’s inaugural year and held it through 2023, was not retained as such in 2024. The anonymous chief inspector for North America confirmed that it will remain as a recommended restaurant for the 2024 selection.

“It’s so exciting to be here with such great chefs,” said Phan of Camille, which inspectors called out for both the comprehensive Vietnamese-French tasting menu available at the chef’s counter, as well as its abbreviated dining room version. “It takes things to another level … now we’re in a new level with top players and it is so exciting to be here.”

Orlando is a great dining destination all on its own, the Michelin Guide‘s anonymous chief inspector for North America told the Orlando Sentinel.

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“This year’s selection and increase in stars for Orlando shows there is a lot of local talent,” the inspector said. ” Additionally, Orlando diners are adventurous, and the diversity of cuisine in the selection is a truly interesting facet of the local dining landscape. Camille earning one Michelin Star for their Vietnamese cuisine is a first in the U.S., and Papa Llama earning one Michelin Star for their Peruvian cuisine is worth spotlighting.”

Papa Llama, noted the chief inspector, was a Bib Gourmand in the 2023 selection but recently introduced a tasting menu.

“[The restaurant] was on the inspection team’s radar, especially since they changed course,” the inspector said. “Over several visits the inspectors experienced meals that really showcased the talent and personality of the chef in the cuisine, indicative of a restaurant operating at the one-star level.”

Co-owners Kevin and Maria Ruiz weren’t able to make the ceremony, but the morning after, Maria told the Sentinel she was in shock.

“We are so profoundly grateful to everyone who supported us and to the Michelin inspectors who took the time to see and appreciate every detail we pour ourselves into,” said Maria Ruiz. “The journey has been challenging, but we’ve fought hard to put our best out there without compromise or wavering on our values in the face of adversity. It is especially meaningful and satisfying to be recognized in that light.”

Michelin in color

Additionally, Kaya — which landed among the Michelin-recommended at last year’s soiree in Miami — has been awarded the Green Star. Introduced in 2021, the Green Star recognizes restaurants with outstanding eco-friendly practices.

“We are thrilled to announce Green Star restaurants in the selection for the first time, showcasing these restaurants’ commitment to a more sustainable gastronomy,” said Gwendal Poullenec, the international director of the Michelin Guides, in a news release.

Prior to the announcements, Kaya chef Lordfer Lalicon, wasn’t sure where, if anywhere, they’d land, but his hope for a Green Star panned out.

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“It’s about sustainability, and that’s what we represent: recognizing the resources around Orlando,” Lalicon said. “It’s not just about good food, but about supporting local. It’s something I will continue to talk about, and being part of Michelin will allow us to do more.”

Kaya is currently a James Beard Award finalist in the Best New Restaurant category. The awards ceremony will be held in Chicago on June 10.

Contemporary Mexican restaurant Los Félix Miami also received the Green Star distinction.

Special awards

The Disney contingent was elated not only by Victoria and Albert’s star award — a litany of locals were shocked when the venue was included in last year’s recommendation without one — but also by restaurant maître d’hôtel and sommelier Israel Perez’s Outstanding Service Award. Perez, an arguable food and beverage legend who has been with the company since 1988, was joined in the special award spotlight by Justin Levaughn, whose Michelin Exceptional Cocktails Award brings another nod home for Otto’s High Dive. The Milk District rum bar and restaurant received the Bib Gourmand Award in 2023.

“This just kind of blindsided me. I’m really excited that people are giving the cocktail scene and bartenders and bars the attention they need,” Levaughn said. “But I think the most important message here is if you are opening restaurants, put them in the hands of chefs, and if you’re opening bars, put them in the hands of bartenders. That’s it. Once you have bartenders that own places, you’re going to see the quality go up. Once you have chefs owning restaurants, you’re going to see things go to a whole new level.”

407 creep

Orlando’s reach expanded beyond the city limits in a way, as Tampa’s two-concept Kosen, from James Beard-nominated restaurateurs Jimmy and Johnny Tung, is one of two restaurants to earn the city stars in 2024. It was a big night for the Tungs, whose Camille was another of the night’s star stories, new feathers in a Michelin-selected cap that also includes Orlando’s Domu, Doshi, Kaya, Norigami, Tori Tori and Zaru.

“This is the biggest night of my career,” said Johnny Tung. “I’m completely elated. The chefs and their teams have done an amazing job. Before this, we were trying to get Orlando ON the map. Now, Orlando IS the map.”

The 2024 selection brings Florida’s star total to 26, with L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon of Miami leading the pack as the only two-starred restaurant in the state. 149 venues representing 38 cuisines are now a part of the Guide’s Sunshine State edition. Orlando’s cut features seven stars, 11 Bib Gourmands and 39 recommended restaurants. Bib Gourmand newcomers Sushi Saint and Zaru were announced last week.

“Since the arrival of the Michelin Guide to Florida in 2022, there has been significant growth in the state’s local culinary scene, proving Florida is a leading gastronomic destination for travelers near and far,” said Poullenec.

For a complete list of the Michelin selection in Florida, visit guide.michelin.com/us/en/florida/restaurants.

Want to reach out? Find me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. For more foodie fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.