This One-of-a-Kind Pink Gold Patek Philippe 1518 Could Fetch $4.4 Million at Auction

Demetrius Simms
·3 min read
4

One of the most significant chronographs in history will soon be up for grabs.

Launched in 1941, at the height of World War II, the 1518 reference is the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph. It was produced in limited quantities—only 281 examples were made—until 1954. Renowned car engineer Clarin Mustad loved the watch so much he commissioned his own pink-gold version in 1944, adding a number of unique alterations. Now, Mustad’s example will cross the block at Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in November, and it could fetch between $2.2 million and $4.4 million, according to auction house estimates.

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Dubbed the “Clarin Mustad 1518,” the 34.7 mm pink-gold chronograph is one of the first 54 examples of the reference made during WWII, according to Sotheby’s. Making it even more scarce, it is one of only 14 known models to feature a matching pink dial (most pink-gold examples were paired with a silver dial). And, thanks to Mustad, it is also the only known example with an “Empire” case designed without the lugs seen on all other series models. The lugs on classic models allowed owners to swap between a leather strap and metal bracelet options, while Mustad’s edition makes its Gay Frères-designed metal bracelet integral to the case.

The pink dial was made by Stern Frères, who took over Patek Philippe in 1932, and was likely a “special order” since it appears to be different from the Arabic numeral dials of its time. And Mustad didn’t stop there. The engineer “also asked for the applied dot hour markers, day and month calendar discs, and baton hands to be pink,” according to a press release. The enhanced bezel features a larger opening for the crystal topping the piece, which offers a better view of the model’s moon phase and tachymeter scale features. The bezel’s profile is also distinct from standard 1518 models.

Inside the caseback, you’ll find engraved text that reads “Mustad Clarin c/o Benoit SA CH-1820 Montreux Reward-Recompense”—a detail added just in case it was lost. The dial also features the rare original “Patek Philippe & Co” brand imprint, which was altered to the more familiar “Patek Philippe” in later models.

“The 1518 reference by Patek Philippe is one of those few iconic series from which every watch collector dreams of owning an example,” says Mikael Wallhagen, Sotheby’s Geneva head of auction in a statement. “To be able to offer at auction, within this legendary series, a reference that is utterly unique in its design and for that design to have been commissioned by Hans Clarin Hovind Mustad, credited with the invention of the car ignition, is truly exciting.”

You can place your bids on the pioneer’s watch at the Sotheby’s Important Watches Auction: Part I in Geneva on November 5.

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