One of the Best Pizza Spots in the World Is Hidden on the 38th Floor of a Tokyo Hotel

And there’s even a view of the Mona Lisa - sort of.

When traveling, I try to avoid hotel restaurants as much as possible. Sure, I’ll occasionally indulge in a complimentary breakfast, but I’d much rather eat a sad-looking croissant surrounded by locals than a buffet of items without any sense of place. But, on a recent trip to Tokyo, a metropolis renowned for its food, I found myself anticipating a meal inside the confines of my hotel. And I wasn’t wrong to do so because, as it turns out, one of the best pizza restaurants in the city is lurking adjacent to the hotel lobby of the Mandarin Oriental — and in the very same place where the breakfast buffet is served no less.

To the uninitiated, eating pizza in Tokyo might seem equivalent to eating Mexican in Paris or Peruvian in Geneva, but in all reality, Tokyo boasts Neapolitan pizza that is so world-renowned it’s known to rival that of Naples. There is Savoy Tomato and Cheese and Pizza Mariumo, Seirinkan, and even the new Trunk(Hotel) property off of Yoyogi Park now boasts a wood-fired oven pizza restaurant buzzing with locals. And then, hiding on the 38th floor of the Mandarin Oriental, is Pizza Bar, which sits in a class all its own.

Walking in, one might think it was nothing special. In fact, I began wondering if I was still in Tokyo. The room is slightly antiquated, and with a portrait of the Mona Lisa with a conversation bubble that says “I love Pizza,” a logo that looks like a New York street sign, and a beautiful view of Tokyo with Mount Fuji visible on a clear day, the restaurant feels entirely without place.

Upon seating, guests are told they’ll be getting eight slices of pizza (an equivalent to one whole pie here), no more, no less. And that all of the ingredients are local. But that begs the question: local to where?

At first, the answer seems to be Italy. As if to demonstrate that these guys can make pizza and make it well, the first two pizzas are simple and “traditional,” according to the chef, who is now kneading the dough gently in front of me. A marinara and a Bufala pie are fired in the oven but still yield a crackly, crispy crust that is able to withstand sliced tomatoes, anchovies, garlic, and mozzarella, respectively.

While the pizza seems to be Neapolitan, it is decidedly not, and the first bite into the crust, or a good long stare into the flickering oven (flickering not from flames but because it’s electric gas) reveals this. It turns out that the dough — with an 80% hydration, proofed for 48 hours in the refrigerator — is actually designed to be cooked in a square flatbread shape in the style of Pizza alla Pala from central Lazio. Here, however, the chef decided to make circular pizzas, both to play with the expectations and to make the pizza feel more familiar to guests from around the world.

Things take a strange interlude when the third pizza — if you could call it that — comes out. It is focaccia, twice baked, with an olive tapenade smeared inside and grated black truffle balanced on top in addition to Japanese Negi (or garlic chive). Is it pizza? What is pizza? At this point, I don’t care about labels. I eat it all.

The dinner has another twist when the fourth and fifth pizzas arrive, which the chef describes as “seasonal.” It turns out that this time, he is talking about the seasons in Japan. A white cauliflower pizza emerges from the oven, which is then topped delicately with uni (one sliver per slice). The other is topped with sweet duck sausage and carrots perfectly sautéed, along with dots of carrot cream.

By now, I’m beyond full, but the last slice — taken in two bites — is a quattro formaggi that is at first a gooey cheesy mouthful, then transformed into a French onion soup thanks to a ramekin filled with an onion reduction sauce.

Finally, there’s an affogato for dessert, which is at once delicious, but decidedly an afterthought. You’re in Japan, and while you should be seeking out ramen, sushi, and the like, it doesn’t matter — you’re now on the hunt for more pizza like this. Thankfully, the city is filled with it. And all you need to do is make a reservation.

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