Off-White RTW Fall 2018

First off, where was the riot police? Guests had to literally fight their way into the Off-White show on Thursday, with Virgil Abloh groupies forming a dangerous crush at the entrance. Some called it a mosh pit.

Blame it on the sneakerheads. A member of the Karla Otto team attributed the chaos to the release of a white Virgil Abloh x Air Jordan 1 sneaker at neighboring concept store Nous on Rue Cambon earlier in the day.

“Everybody wants these shoes,” attested influencer Luka Sabbat, pointing down to pair of the prized goods. When asked if he had any scars from getting into the show, he replied: “No, my sneakers are untouched.”

(The Washinton Post’s Robin Givhan being hit in the face was among the war stories being exchanged front row, while one person fainted, according to the police.)

Asked to comment on the crush backstage after the show, Abloh said he was “only just learning about it now.”

But for those who braved the crush and chaos, was it worth it?

Bella Hadid opened the show in a corseted toile de jouy bodysuit ending just under the breasts, creating a push-up effect, over a white shirt.

From there, the designer moved between a coquettish riding theme – think a horsey zipped checked cape top with a quilted capelet over it, and pants and peplum blousons in a shiny black croc-embossed leather – and high-tech gym gear, including a supertight black catsuit stamped with a white logo marked “modern.”

The split personality dresses – like the halterneck style in a futuristic blue snakeskin material on one side and a ruched blue leather on the other, with a long sleeve extending into a glove – looked kind of weird.

The simpler pieces, like the bustier dresses with splits, worked best, and the tailored takes on riding coats. The show ended in a run of frilly red carpet tulle looks and a swishy chiffon gown in cheap-toilet-paper-peach.

Abloh remained consistent in his continuation of last season’s kitsch Princess Diana tribute. But from his jumping on the good taste/bad taste bandwagon to the trademarked toile de jouy (blending in the scenery, some of the horse riders sported Off-White arrow logos on the backs of their riding coat), any attempt at irony fell flat.

Launch Gallery: Off-White RTW Fall 2018

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