Oceanside, California, culture embraces sun, sand and surf
OCEANSIDE, Calif. - Rick Wilson points to an old surfboard that sits behind the counter at the California Surf Museum and explains how the early boards sometimes weighed more than 100 pounds.
Much has changed since the early days of surfing. The 1966 iconic movie “The Endless Summer” helped bring the sport to the forefront. America fell in love with Southern California’s free-spirited beach culture.
Surfboards have gotten much lighter, and surfers have gotten much more diverse in age.
“Back then, by the time you were 30 or so, you were done,” explains Wilson. “Now, people surf into their 70s. It’s generational.”
Surfers are a fixture in Oceanside, a classic small beach locale, noted for its long pier, challenging waves and laid-back lifestyle.
Capital of surfing
Attitude might be the biggest item that sets apart Oceanside from other cities on the Southern California coast. The place is short on pretension, long on fun, carefree ways.
People here don’t take themselves too seriously. They rollerblade and skateboard along the Strand, a mile-long, palm-lined greenway that runs along the beach. They cart fishing gear out to the end of the nearly 2,000-foot-long Oceanside Municipal Pier. They treat their beach like a city park. Families gather, listen to music at the amphitheater, scamper on the municipal playground and enjoy themselves.
And they surf.
Blessed with consistent surf spots, Oceanside is home to world-renowned surfers, including Caity Simmers, a 2024 Olympian and pro surfer. The USA Surf Team trains here regularly. The city supports numerous surf schools, top-tier surfboard manufacturers, and major and minor surfing events. A local competition was going on during our recent visit.
Active cultural life
Historic U.S. Route 101 runs through Oceanside. The famed highway that extends 1,500 miles up the Pacific coast adds to the cultural lore. 101 Cafe, opened in 1928, is the oldest operating diner on Historic 101. Vestiges of the days when Hollywood celebrities came to this vacationland remain, though much has been added to the mix.
Downtown is still the place to be. Passengers traveling from Los Angeles or San Diego on the Pacific Surfliner can step off the train and be at the beach in just minutes. Hotels, museums and restaurants are in easy walking distance.
Sitting modestly amidst two luxury hotels - The Seabird Ocean Resort and the Mission Pacific Beach Resort - is the petite “Top Gun” House. The oceanfront cottage was built in 1887 as a summer home. In 1985, it was used in the filming of the movie “Top Gun” as the residence of Tom Cruise’s love interest.
The city’s arts and cultural scene captures the energy of sculptors, weavers, photographers, muralists, performers and patrons. Neon lights blaze from the Star Theatre marquee, and music flows from the amphitheater. Murals splash bold designs on the walls of downtown businesses. The Oceanside Museum of Art presents the color-soaked works of Southern California artists. The museum’s side-by-side buildings were designed separately by California modernist architects Irving Gill and Frederick Fisher. The Oceanside Cultural District is one of the 14 state-designated districts appointed by the California Arts Council.
Each Thursday, people come to the Sunset Market, known for international street cuisine plus artists, craftsmen and musicians. Three Michelin-recognized restaurants headline an exuberant culinary community.
An informal atmosphere prevails at Craft Coast Beer and Tacos, one of several Mission Avenue eateries. It serves a wide selection of Baja-style tacos and handcrafted beer. The craft distillery Pacific Coast Spirits offers an inspired selection of grain-to-glass housemade spirits and farm-to-table menu items.
In the evenings, many locals and visitors gather at the Mission Pacific’s rooftop bar to watch the sun set, or they meet at Oceanside Harbor on the north side of town. Fishing vessels and pleasure craft enter boat slips at the close of day. Surfers wash off their boards after riding the waves. A red-and-white-striped lighthouse towers above a small village of shops, restaurants and oyster bar.
The Mission
The San Luis Rey River Trail gives cyclists a nine-mile ride from Neptune Bay on the west to just near the Mission San Luis Rey on the east. It runs by the border of Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton.
The Mission San Luis Rey, founded in 1798, was the largest Spanish mission on the West Coast. It is among the finest existing examples of Spanish Colonial architecture in the state. The pure-white church features a 75-foot bell tower with an aqua blue dome. Biblical paintings and ornate statues fill the inside of the church with its 30-foot-high ceiling. The mission also includes an enclosed garden that holds California’s oldest pepper tree, planted in 1830. A cemetery dates back to the late 18th century.
The Franciscans, a Christian religious order, continue to serve this active parish. The mission maintains the glory of the time when it was known as the "King of the Missions."
Linda Lange and Steve Ahillen are travel writers living in Knoxville, Tenn.
This article originally appeared on Knoxville News Sentinel: Travel: Oceanside, California, culture embraces sun, sand and surf
