Nothing Is More D.C. Than a Raw Bar Platter, a Martini, and a Green Velvet Booth at Old Ebbitt Grill

2023 Best New Chef Isabel Coss shares her guide to eating and drinking in Washington, D.C.

For 2023 F&W Best New Chef Isabel Coss, food has always been her way of getting to know a city and finding a home. “I moved to Washington, D.C., three years ago, and from the moment I stepped into the capital, friends and colleagues reached out to show their support and make me feel welcome and appreciated as an immigrant,” she says. “That level of support has been so powerful and empowering.”

Coss has completely fallen in love with Washington, D.C.’s food and beverage scene — a diverse, vibrant community of restaurants that has pride in their historic staples, like blue crabs dusted in Old Bay seasoning and Ben’s Chili Bowl, but also supports diversity and innovation. “It reflects the diverse backgrounds of the immigrants who have lived and thrived here before me, while also providing a welcoming space for new generations of cooks and communities. Through its food, D.C. has become a home away from home for me.”

Here are some of Coss’ favorite places to eat and drink in the capital.

Irresistible rigatoni

“The rigatoni from The Red Hen is an iconic and delicious dish that has been on their menu for the past 10 years. It is so good that Joe Biden visited and had it twice! The ragù that accompanies the rigatoni is simply irresistible. It’s always OK to order seconds.”

Boozy breakfast

“If you want to start your day off right, all you need is Maïz64. I recommend getting the chilaquiles, a concha, and a café de olla with a shot of mezcal. Who needs unlimited mimosas when you can have a delicious shaken carajillo that not only wakes you up, but also serves as dessert with its sweet orange notes?”

Spanish-inspired sweets

“Johnny Spero is a super-talented chef who was trained in pastry in Spain and in José Andrés’ kitchens — and it shows. The torrijas with egg yolk caramel at Bar Spero is just luscious. It’s crunchy, creamy, sweet, and acidic. Perfection.”

Manifesting sourdough

“Manifest Bread is a bakery that I highly recommend. When I first met co-owner and baker Rick Cook, he brought a massive sourdough loaf that was as big as both of my arms combined. It didn’t last long in the kitchen; the entire crew devoured it after our shift. Since then, I’ve been obsessed with their products.”

Pisco place

“The team at Amazonia are experts when it comes to mixing Amazonian ingredients with pisco or other spirits. Trust Peruvians with your thirst needs — they know what they’re doing.”

Related: Isabel Coss Wants to Champion the Art of Mexican Pastry in America

Queen of vino

“On my days off, you can usually find me at Queen’s English. The wine is chosen by co-owner and manager Sarah Thompson, and it’s focused on natural wines that pair incredibly well with the delicious Hong Kong cuisine created by her husband, chef and co-owner Henji Cheung.”

A meal with a view

“For a view, my go-to spot is Colada Shop. It’s situated in the new area of The Wharf where you can enjoy a Cafe Cubano and guava pastelitos while overlooking the water and watching boats go by. As for an everyday spot, the patio at Maketto is located inside a shoe and fashion store and serves great coffee and Cambodian and Taiwanese food. It’s the perfect place for me to decompress and fuel up.”

Feelin’ fancy

“Izakaya Seki is my perfect dinner and date-night spot. Fancy to me is snagging a seat at the kitchen counter and watching all the meat kiss the grill or a cook flipping the best omelet filled with unagi, while chef Hiroshi Seki perfectly slices the fish for the tuna nuta dish that I’m obsessed with.”

Soup for the soul

“Menya Hosaki is a ramen shop in Petworth that serves a special ramen called “tokusei” every Tuesday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. The restaurant is popular among industry professionals, and the ramen type changes weekly, offering a unique experience every time. The noodles are handmade, and the broths are hearty, making for a satisfying meal that is sure to warm your soul.”

Presidential treatment

“Old Ebbitt Grill, located next to the White House, is open late. Grab a seat on their green velvet booths, order the Orca raw bar platter and a crab cake, sip on a martini, and feel like an ambassador. It doesn’t get more D.C. than that.”

Green flag

“The Green Zone is a Middle Eastern industry bar in Adams Morgan that’s open late and serves great cocktails and delicious food.”

Shop till you drop

“Hana Market on U Street (2000 17th St. NW) is a great spot for Japanese snacks and fresh onigiri. Mexican Fruits has been providing Mexican and Latin spices and produce at affordable prices for over 20 years. I go there weekly to stock up on my Mexican pantry essentials. And at Union Market, I enjoy the locally sourced dairy products at The Creamery, a delicious ice cream shop and store.”

Good wine

“I must admit, I’m biased when it comes to the wine list at Lutèce. Chef Matt Conroy and I started it ourselves when we first opened and didn’t have any staff. The list was created from the kitchen’s perspective, with a focus on wines that pair well and complement the acidity or spiciness of our food. Nowadays, the list is run by Chris Ray, a super-talented advanced sommelier who I believe has the best palate in the city. Chris can taste and differentiate between honeysuckle and lavender notes in wine. It’s so much fun to watch him work.”

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