This Nordic Country's National Drink Is Nicknamed 'The Black Death,' and It's Delicious
You may even want seconds.
Lauren Breedlove
It was so crystal clear it could easily have been mistaken as water. Despite being directly translated as "burnt wine," I could look right through the shot staring back at me, a substance I had assumed would be dark in appearance. "Burnt wine," I would learn, actually just referred to how it was distilled over an open flame. Somehow, I had traveled to Iceland several times without trying the national drink, Brennivín. Now, I was making it a point to try the iconic spirit with a storied history and a nickname for the books. So, how does one drink something called 'The Black Death?' At room temperature, of course.
I was saddled up to the bar at Reykjavik's Midgardur by Center Hotels' Jörgensen Kitchen & Bar, seconds from going all in on my first taste of The Black Death. A tip of the shot glass and down the hatch it went. With expectations for the taste to match the ominous name, I had arranged my pre-shot facial expressions as such. Instead, "I've had way worse" came out of my mouth, and my face morphed into genuine surprise. It was the type of liquor that takes you on an unexpected journey in just a few split seconds and tasted unlike anything I had ever drunk before.
"First, you'll taste the cumin, then for a second, you'll have a tasteless moment, then the caraway will come in, and the sweetness will tie it all in. It will be quite strong," Király Lazos, the bartender at Jörgensen Kitchen & Bar, shared. "All of these flavors you would associate with food, not drinks. That's why it's off-putting for most people because it will be very strange." He was spot on. For his prediction that it would grow on me after a few times? Well, I'd be the judge of that.
Although the current version of Brennivín was formally introduced in 1935 when the prohibition was partially lifted, the unique aquavit has actually been around (and enjoyed) since the 17th century. Aquavit, derived from the Latin “aqua vitae,” meaning “water of life,” is specific to mostly Scandinavian countries (and northern Germany). It’s typically distilled from potato or grain, with a smorgasbord of locally grown herbs mixed in for flavoring. Depending on the region, anything from dill, cumin, caraway, fennel, and anise is used. In Iceland, the main herb is the distinct and resilient caraway, grown freely in the wild arctic lands of the country, and makes itself known about three-quarters of the way through the shot. Oh, and the water used for proofing? It’s pure lava-filtered goodness.
Lauren Breedlove
As for how it got its nickname, that's thanks to the label. When Brennivín became available to the public in 1935, it was given a black label adorned with a skull emblem, hoping it would deter people from buying and drinking too much of the adult beverage, which contains an alcohol percentage of 37.5% — a not-so-subtle warning.
"Unexpectedly, it had the opposite effect, and today, no other Icelandic brand measures up to its heritage. Brennivín has since become the signature drink of Iceland," Hlynur Björnsson, brand manager of Brennivín at Ölgerðin, shared.
Perhaps the most famous legend tied to Brennivín is one that lives on today. It's said that the drink was traditionally used to chase down fermented shark (hákarl), an Icelandic specialty. A shot after ingesting the shark is intended to help mask the unsavory taste and perhaps make you forget the terrible smell associated with the delicacy. Whether the pairing was an intended match made in Icelandic culinary heaven, or it was just a tall tale, the duo ended up becoming a thing, much like "tequila with salt and a lime," according to Lazos. These days, if you order fermented shark while visiting Iceland, it will indeed be served with a shot of Brennivín.
"You can have two signature tastes of Iceland in one go if you do the shark and Brennivín pairing," suggested Lazos. This unique experience can be had at most restaurants in Iceland, where traditional food is served.
I was happy to forgo the shark portion of the experience and keep on the Brennivín train, particularly jazzed by the bright pink cocktail with a gooseberry garnish that was next on the docket and oh-so-pretty.
Not that Brennivín was ever really out of style in Iceland, but with other liquor choices like gin eventually on the table, it did have a bit of a lull. With the evolution of the craft cocktail, aquavit has seen a bit of a renaissance, thanks to the creativity of bartenders. "A favorite of mine is a Brennivín Negroni where you swap out the gin for the Original Brennivín in a classic Negroni; a super floral and delicious twist on a bartender classic," Björnsson said.
"It's not easy to use it in cocktails. It's an intense taste that opens up in cocktails weirdly, so you need to play quite a lot into balancing the taste. It's rewarding, though, because you can use ingredients you already know, and introduce something totally new," Lazos added from across the bar.
One such cocktail is the Pink Puffin, Midgardur's signature drink, made with pineapple juice, strawberry puree, and Brenninvín, about to be sipped by yours truly. Simple and sweet, it went down much easier than the shot, though neither had quite as much bite as their bark.
"It's a nicer way to meet Brennivin for the first time vs. a shot," Lazos said.
So, if you'd like a gentle introduction to the Land of Fire and Ice's national drink and first Icelandic spirit, order a cocktail. Or, just order a shot, say "Skål," and give it a full send.
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